How to Properly White Sand a Wood Floor

What does it mean to white sand a floor?  For those who work in the construction field or renovation, this question may seem obvious.  Did a question mark pop up in your mind and it was out of curiosity that you clicked on the link to this article? Or maybe you must accomplish this task without quite knowing how? In this article, we will teach you about this simple, but very important process, which is part of the PREPARATION stage before the application of a finishing product.

1. What does ”White Sanding” mean?

Sanding a floor clean involves removing the top layer of the old, worn finish and exposing the wood underneath.  We say “white” because the wood changes colour over time, and it usually becomes a little darker.  Sandblasting it will restore its original colour and therefore “pale” it, in other words.  It is a process that is mostly done by professionals.  It can also be done at home with a few tools and the proper abrasives.

2. Why do we need to White Sand?

There are several reasons why you may need to remove the finish from a wood surface.  If it’s scratched or chipping in places, you’ll probably need to remove it.  To change your present finish for another, it is also very likely that you will have to white sand.  If you want to change the colour of your hardwood floor to a lighter more current stain, you will need to go through this step as well.  Finally, and for whichever reason, you’ll have heavy duty sanding to do.

3. Why is it important to properly White Sand a Floor?

The action of sanding wood is quite simple whether it is with a machine or by hand.  Probably since it is so simple and dusty, this step is very often done quickly and sloppily.  What is important to know is that if the white sanding of your surface is not done correctly, the application of a finishing product will be difficult and imperfect.  In the worst case, it is even possible that your finishing product will not adhere or impregnate well to your wood.  If so, you may have to start over and redo the sanding step.

We want to save you that hassle, so here are the steps to properly white sand your wood surface.

4. What are the Steps to Properly White Sand a Floor?

STRIPPING (IF REQUIRED)

If you have had water damage or your wood has been exposed to moisture, stains and mould may have set in.  Unfortunately, sandblasting may not always remove mould or stains completely.   It is then necessary to use a product that will dislodge them before the sanding stage to avoid spreading this dirt on the healthy wood.

It’s the same as if you would want to remove a dye.  Since it colours deep into the wood, it is better to use a product that will remove it, rather than sanding the wood until the colour disappears.  This is an additional step, but it will cost less sandpaper and will require less energy in the end.

Here are a few products that can come in handy.

CLEANING

First of all, it is important to thoroughly clean and degrease the surface before sanding.  Even if you have to buy an additional product to do this, the dirt that has accumulated on your surface will “clog” your paper and you will therefore have to change it more often.  Also, if you sand without cleaning with a good degreaser, you will contaminate your wood. Sanding creates micro-incisions on the surface, which can result in deeper penetration of the greasy particles. These residues can cause your finishing product to not adhere well or to penetrate the wood improperly.

Here are Products that can help.

SANDING

SANDING PAPER

A bit of theory to start:  Do you know where the nomenclature for sandpaper numbers comes from?   They are determined by the number of grains per square inch.  The smaller the number on a sandpaper, the coarser the grain will be.  The higher the number,  the softer the grain will be.  Sandpaper can be used for both sanding and polishing a surface.  It all depends on the grain size used.

You won’t be able to do the job effectively with just one size of sandpaper.  You will need several different grains depending on the steps.

Here are Products that can help.

FOR AN INDOOR SURFACE:

Best-case scenario, you have cleaned your surface, and now you need to white sand.  To do this, you will ideally start with a 36 to 60 grit.  Be sure to completely remove the old finish.  When the wood sanding is complete, you can fill the holes and imperfections with an appropriate putty. 

Afterwards, you must go a second time with an 80-grit to even out the surface and erase the sanding scratches.  To finish, you will pass one last time with 100 to 120-grit paper, according to the manufacturer’s instructions for the finishing product you have chosen to apply.  Even if the wood is new and leaves the factory, it is strongly recommended to sand it with a grain of 100 or 120 to even out the surface and therefore ensure good adhesion of the product. 

When wood is planed, it is often "glazed" by the metal knives on the planer. In addition, the knives spread the wood’s resin onto the surface, creating a glaze that blocks absorption.

FOR AN OUTDOOR SURFACE:

The wood used outdoors, known as “treated”, is already protected against mould.  If it is new, it would be better to wait a year before covering it with a finishing product to allow time for the wood and the treatment product to dry properly.  If it is already a coated wood, you will need to do the stripping and cleaning steps before sanding.  To remove the old finish, you will need to start with a 36 to 60-grit paper.  Thereafter, you will need to use the grit size that is recommended by the manufacturer of the finishing product that you will apply to your surface.

Conclusion

All stages of product application are important, but we wanted you to realize that proper preparation remains the key to a successful project.  If you intend to sell your property in a few years, it is good to think about updating the décor and this includes refinishing your hardwood floors.  This will increase the value of your home without costing a fortune.  At any time, you can call on the professionals, but by having read this article, you can be sure that the preparation work has been done well.

SANDING YOUR HARDWOOD FLOOR

SABLER SON PLANCHER DE BOIS FRANC

Comment appliquer de l’huile naturelle monocouche pour protéger un plancher

HOW TO PAINT OUTDOOR FURNITURE

As soon as the weather gets warmer, we all pull out our patio chairs into the backyard or out of the shed at the cottage. Often, outdoor furniture doesn’t “winter” well and starts to look weathered after a season or two. We are teaching you how to paint outdoor furniture with Fusion Mineral Paint today. The information shared in this blog post is going to help you to makeover your outdoor furniture set, give your chairs or table a new lease on life and save you a load of money!

Most exterior or outdoor furniture is made of plastic or wood. Plastic patio chairs are everywhere these days and easy on the bank account. What we often find with plastic outdoor patio chairs is that they fade in the sunlight over time and then when we go to set them out again after a long winter, they look horrible. Then sometimes you just take them out and wonder, “Why did I buy this colour chair again?”. Maybe you were into red two years ago but not this year.

Time for an outdoor furniture makeover courtesy of Fusion Mineral Paint. Although we are sharing how to paint a plastic outdoor chair with Fusion Mineral Paint, this tutorial is the same for outdoor wood furniture as well! Two for one guys!

The before! A basic red plastic Adirondack – or as well call them in Canada, a Muskoka chair! A cottage classic.

Whatever your reason for wanting to improve or change the look of your outdoor furniture, instead of buying brand exterior furniture, why not update it with Fusion Mineral Paint? It’s super easy to create a new look, and yes, you can absolutely paint plastic with Fusion Mineral Paint. We get that question A LOT in Paint It Beautiful.  You can also paint metal, glass and other hard-to-paint surfaces.  This tutorial gives you a quick and simple way to give your exterior furniture a fresh look in hours.

What you’ll need to paint your outdoor furniture:

woman painting a plastic chair

Step 1 – Prep Your Outdoor Furniture – Clean 

Clean your chairs or table OR BOTH! Get rid of the dust, dirt and any debris that is on it. In our case, the chair was really dirty as it had been left outside all winter. You can use our TSP to give it a good wash down and prep the surface for paint. Any painting project is only as good as your prep so making sure your surface is clean before painting is a must. Please follow the instructions on the TSP to use it correctly. Although it is not necessary to wash the chair with water after cleaning with your TSP solution, it doesn’t hurt to give it a quick rinse with just water after. Let it dry completely before moving to the next step.

Jennylyn gave this old chair a quick clean in the sunshine with a small amount of water with a little TSP mixed in.

Step 2 – Paint your outdoor furniture 

Get ready to paint! Always paint in the direction of the grain of the chair or table (even with plastic) and remember the cardinal rule of painting with Fusion Mineral Paint – thin coats are better than thick coats. So apply one thin coat, let dry completely and go over a second time if needed. We suggest waiting at least a few hours before doing the second coat.

You will find that Fusion Mineral Paint goes on really easily as it is a self-levelling paint. As you can see from the photo below, that finish is so smooth! Look how amazing this chair is already looking!!! Totally transformed from faded red to a modern farmhouse.

Step 3 – let your outdoor furniture dry and prepare to apply a second coat if needed

Let dry and apply a second coat or touch-ups where needed. Depending on what colour you are going from, one coat may be all you need. This was one coat with some touch-ups in spots! Inglenook has amazing coverage. Coverage with different colours changes due to the pigments and makeup of each colour so it varies from colour to colour.

Step 4 – prepare to fall in love with your patio set, outdoor chairs or table all over again!

You’re done! And you have yourself a gorgeous new chair, in a custom colour of your choice!

One of the best things about Fusion Mineral Paint is that it is an excellent paint for outdoor furniture. It is waterproof and the color lasts a very long time due to the mineral pigments being used. We washed down the chair a couple of days later without any issues. And you do not need to use Ultra Grip prior to painting. Fusion Mineral Paint will work just great for this project on its own! We do recommend not leaving your Fusion painted outdoor furniture outside in harsh conditions to prolong the lifespan of the item. So if you can, store indoors during the winter or at least have the items covered. 

We filmed a great Live Facebook Video about how to paint outdoor furniture

data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==

If you have any outdoor chair makeovers, by all means, please share them with us in our Paint it Beautiful group on Facebook!

PIN IT FOR LATER!

Original version: HERE

OFFICIAL DISTRIBUTOR OF
FUSION MINERAL PAINT™
QUÉBEC

HOW TO PAINT YOUR FRONT DOOR WITH FUSION MINERAL PAINT

Typically when people use Fusion Mineral Paint, they just think about how to use it with interior pieces since it is furniture paint after all BUT Fusion Mineral Paint is actually a fabulous paint for painting your front door! Our paint is perfect for exterior doors and an easy way to update, spruce up or completely transform the exterior of your home! Today we are teaching you how to paint your front door with Fusion Mineral Paint.

painted front door -red door on left, blue painted door on the left

Our front door before

We were going from red to blue as we wanted a fresh new look to match the house shutters. Plus the previous paint was not aging very well so it was high time to change things up.

For this project, we went with Fusion’s Liberty Blue. This highly saturated, intense royal blue has been one of our original blues for over 20 years.

STEP 1 – PREP YOUR FRONT DOOR 

A good cleaning is usually all you need to prepare your door for painting. Does not matter if it’s wood, steel or metal, you can clean them all with our TSP. This will help get rid of dirt, grime, oil and any sticky fingerprints left over from last summers little hands covered in melting popsicles, pushing it open. By using TSP, you are making sure that the surface is ready to be painted and that Fusion will adhere properly!

Fusion’s TSP is a concentrated formula and phosphate free so it’s very eco-friendly. All you do is use two full caps and mix them into 2 litres of water and clean. I Restore Stuff has a great video tutorial showing how to use it. And yes you can use this on a previously painted door.

PREP TIP: The one caveat we always mention is that make sure that your door is not covered in wax. Do the wax scratch test to ensure that it is free of wax. Drag your fingernail over the door and see if any wax comes off. If it does have wax on it, you must use Mineral Spirits to clean it, you cannot paint over wax.

Also if your front door is a wood, metal or steel door with peeling paint, a light sanding will help to remove any bumps or scuffs to ensure you have a smooth surface to paint on. Then lightly wipe to remove any dust or sanding residue. Again, you want to make sure there isn’t any residual dirt or sanded off materials that will get stuck in your fresh paint!

STEP 2 – REMOVING HARDWARE/USING PAINTER’S TAPE ON YOUR DOOR 

Now, you don’t “have to” remove your door handles and locks in order to paint your doors. You can use painter’s tape to tape around them. Removing hardware is a great way to avoid brush marks around the handles. However, oftentimes door hardware can be tricky to install again so unless you know what you’re doing, this is an easy fix.

However, if you’re planning on changing the hardware and locks, they won’t always fit in the exact measurements as the previous ones. The last thing you want is a trace of the previous color peeking out under a door handle. So in that case, obviously removing the hardware is a must.

Also make sure you do use painter’s tape around any glass areas that you cannot remove (especially in windows with grids). If you forget (we’ve been there, it happens) use a clean cloth with TSP to remove the paint from any surfaces. you don’t want it adhering to BEFORE the paint dries and especially before it cures, as you can use Fusion to paint glass and other mirrored surfaces.

STEP 3 – PAINT YOUR DOOR 

You can choose the tools that you feel comfortable using. Some people prefer a microfibre roller, while other are more comfortable using a brush. If you are worried about brush strokes, the key to not getting brush strokes is to paint in thinner, not thicker coats. Remember, less is more! We have a great post that covers the basic on how to paint to avoid brush strokes.

Because each door is different, a good rule of thumb is to paint the edges and any crevices on the door first. Then do a coat of paint with a roller on the flat surfaces.

As the paint dries, you may notice some sections that are darker than others. This sometimes happens when using roller brushes as we don’t get an equal amount of paint all around the roller after we place it in the paint tray. Then, as we roll down a surface, some parts will appear thicker than others in your first coat or two (depending on what colour you’re using). It can even happen with a regular brush. As you become more experienced with painting, you will get a better feel for how to paint surfaces as to avoid this.

Resist the temptation of going over the areas around those spots with more paint during this time. This will cause an uneven surface. The rule of thumb with Fusion is to always use thin coats. Let it fully dry, and then do another coat. You can always touch up after. Remember, less is more!

The good news is that Fusion is a self leveling paint. Meaning even if you do find you made a mistake, the paint will do it’s best to ensure that it dries as evenly as possible.

Again, let your door dry properly between coats as per instructions on the container.

PAINT TIP: Please do note that weather can affect dry times. Try to avoid painting on extremely humid days or days with extreme temperature changes. Or even very windy days to avoid paint splatter!

The end result? A gorgeous new look for our front door!

ADDITIONAL TIPS & QUESTIONS

ABOUT PAINTING YOUR FRONT DOOR WITH FUSION MINERAL PAINT

Do I need to use Ultra Grip prior to painting my front door?

This depends on your starting surface. Ultra Grip adheres to hard to paint surfaces, in particular, melamine and thermafoil cabinetry. To decide whether or not Ultra Grip is right for your project, watch our video about Ultra Grip. Usually, with wood or metal, you do not need anything else but Fusion Mineral Paint. The only exception to that is using a shellac based primer to avoid bleed-through. (you can read all about that here!)

Do I need to seal my front door with a top coat?

Fusion Mineral Paint comes with a built-in top coat, the 100% acrylic resin. So you do not need to add any additional top coat for water permanency.

What about Fusion Tough Coat? Should I use that because my door is an exterior door?

Fusion Tough Coat is non-yellowing, clear top coat that we created for additional protection in high traffic areas. We want to emphasize that *most* cases, you do NOT need to use this. It was made because we know some of our customers just want that extra reassurance when painting high-traffic areas. We also wrote a very thorough post about how, when and if you need to use it.

Some people who have painted their exterior doors, have done Tough Coat, top coat trick – a 3 layer technique approach with their Tough Coat and Fusion paint. This is where you paint one coat of Fusion paint, then a layer of Fusion’s Tough Coat, then a second coat of Fusion paint. This may be good in situations where your door faces a direction where a lot of natural elements get at it on a regular basis (think high winter winds blowing dirt and small rocks, beating rain with hail and so forth). So this is really a personal choice for you to decide whether or not to use on your door that only you can answer. In most cases, all you really need is Fusion Mineral Paint.

Also, please note that Tough Coat can be more visible on dark colors in particular. Should you decide to use it and streaking occur, you can simply apply the paint over top and leave it as is. A nice thin coat of our Natural color in the Stain and Finishing oil can be a lot more forgiving on darker colors.

My front door is in direct sunlight. Will my color fade?

We manufacture our paint with the highest quality, finely ground, natural mineral pigment and that means you will not get a better depth of color or coverage from any other paint.  Because we use real mineral pigments, our paint is also naturally UV resistant and your color will not fade over time!

We hope this helps you to go give your door a fresh new look. Fusion Mineral Paint has hundreds of gorgeous colours to choose from to help you paint it beautiful!

Original version: HERE

OFFICIAL DISTRIBUTOR OF
FUSION MINERAL PAINT™
QUÉBEC

TOP PAINTING QUESTIONS FOR FUSION MINERAL PAINT

You asked and we are delivering – YOUR top questions about Fusion Mineral Paint. Every day our inbox, direct messages and posts on Paint It Beautiful are filled with tons and tons of questions for us Fusion experts – from very simple questions (HELLO where can I BUY THIS FABULOUS PAINT?!?! to complex, advanced technique questions. We decided it was about time that we compiled the top  25 questions we get asked and provide you with answers straight from the experts! Think you know everything you can about Fusion Mineral Paint? Think again, read on, there is something for everyone!

1) What is tannin bleed and how do you avoid it?

Tannin bleed or bleed through, are the tannins and resins of the wood trying to escape. While tannin stains can occur with almost any species of wood, some types of wood such as cedar and mahogany, are known as staining wood and are more prone to tannin bleed.

image of bleed thru on a piece of wood

You will notice, especially if you paint with lighter colours, almost a shadow, stain or coloring, peeking through your paint as it starts to cure. It then “bleeds” through the paint. This can appear in the shape of a knot from the wood, or an overall hue color change.

So how do we prevent tannin bleed? Applying a stain blocking primer is crucial to preventing bleed through when painting.  You may want to use B-I-N Zinsser Shellac-Based Primer so that the shellac will hold in the resins and not allow for bleeding to occur. You can read more information in our post about “How to prevent bleed through.”

2) What are some of the different methods for distressing?

There are countless ways of distressing wood and making it look old, so we want to share two of our favourites, specifically tailored distressing Fusion Mineral Paint.

tutorial for how to wet distress furniture

A) Using Beeswax – Simply take the beeswax block, (try warming it in your hand for a moment first) and scuff it over any area you want the Fusion Mineral Paint to ‘resist’. In other words, the areas that you do not want the paint to stick to the surface as Fusion is known for its incredibly durable surface after it is cured. This is why distressing before Fusion cures will make the process easier. After you have used your beeswax, go ahead and paint. Once your paint is dry, you can use sandpaper or a wet rag to pull the paint away from the ‘resisted’ surface. My Painted Door has a very thorough post about how to do so.

B) Wet Distressing – Wet distressing is a technique where you remove paint through by using a wet cloth sponge before the paint has had a chance to cure.

For example, a sanding sponge that is damp or a cloth that is damp. It creates less mess and you can control parts you want to distress more easily. We have a great tutorial on how to wet distress

This often shows a beautiful natural looking distressing. as opposed to taking sandpaper to a painted surface that is cured where you have less control and you may go beyond the substrate very quickly without knowing it. If you are using coarse sandpaper it can’t leave scratches so that’s why we prefer wet just stressing because it has a more natural wear appearance.

3) Do I need to sand or prep my wood piece?

That depends on what is on the wood that you want to paint. Clean raw wood only needs to be sure that the last sanding was in the direction of the grain (sandpaper grit no lower than 120). If it is dust free then you can go ahead and paint (if it is a surface that you are not worried about bleeding through). Fusion is self priming on raw wood, meaning it will adhere to and fill in pores to make a uniform surface ready for a covering a second coat of paint. After it has dried you give a very light sanding ( 220 grit or higher) since the wood grain ends can be slightly raised and now have a roughness. When smooth, remove any dust with then you go ahead to put your second and final coat on.

For lacquer or old shiny paint you must degrease or clean with Fusion TSP to ensure all grease and oils have been removed. If it is super shiny we also encourage you to de gloss the surface by a light scuff sand with a fine grit. Do not sand anything you think may contain lead.

If you’re piece has wax on it you must remove with mineral spirits.

Most wood as long as it is clean, doesn’t need anything further. When in doubt, refer to our Prep Guide here.

How to Prep for Painting with Fusion Mineral Paint diagram

4) How do I paint a non-porous surface?

A non-porous is anything that has been previously painted or coated. In which case, follow the same instructions as question # 3 and refer to our Prep Guide.

5) Can I paint kitchen counters?

While you probably could paint a countertop and some of our Paint it Beautiful Group members have, it is not something that we recommend because the countertop surface will come into contact with food, knives, etc. Fusion is mostly a furniture paint, created and tested for that use alone. Anything outside of its intended purpose is not something that we can promote or educate on.

After Kitchen Makeover with Fusion Mineral Paint painted with Casement

6) Do I need Ultra Grip on wood kitchen cabinets?

Most likely not. Typically Ultra Grip is used for Melamine cabinets and very high gloss detailed woodwork that you can’t easily sand to dull the sheen. For wood cabinets, \a good cleaning with TSP  and a light sanding and you’re all set to go! Read more here on How to Prep Like a Pro and Painting Kitchen Cabinets.

7) Can I paint over wipe-on polyurethane?

These surfaces need to be cleaned and scuff sanded prior to painting. 

8) Can I paint over wax?

No. Wax is always the last thing you apply to your furniture (unless you are distressing your piece, in which case refer to Question # 2). If you waxed something and you want to change the look, you must remove it with a mineral spirit before you paint.

9) 

10) Do I have to seal?

Fusion Mineral Paint does not need a sealer as it comes with a built in Top Coat. You can however use our Tough Coat if the circumstances warrant it. To read about when to use and when not to use Tough Coatvisit our blog post about it to help you decide.

If you decide to accent your piece with a Glaze finish on a high-traffic water area like kitchen table tops or kitchen cabinets, it is often recommended for top durability to seal it with Tough Coat. The legs of a table, or a dresser wouldn’t be necessary.

11) What is TSP?

TSP (Trisodium Phosphate ) is a cleaner to help remove dirt, grime and grease so that your painting surface is as clean as can be. Paint doesn’t like to stick to “loose particles” like dust, or grease. TSP removes them all, which will improve the adhesion of your paint and the look of subsequent coatings. Our TSP is biodegradable and organic. Read more about TSP here

12) How do you apply Tough Coat without streaks?

Using a sponge or a damp rag is the easiest way to apply Tough Coat. A large car detailing sponge tends to be the best way to apply it, from end to end. We have a great video where Jennylyn shows the application process.

13) How do I test if a previously painted piece was waxed?

Do a scratch test using your nails. If anything comes up under your fingernail, then there is most likely grease or wax and it needs to be thoroughly removed before painting.

14) When to use Ultra Grip?

Almost never! The only exceptions to using Ultra Grip are the ThermaFoil kitchen cabinetry or lacquers that have very detailed mouldings and you do not want to scuff sand in all these little detailed or carved areas.

15) Can you use Fusion indoors?

Fusion Mineral Paint is safe to use as a year-round paint, even indoors in the winter.

16) Chalky style paint and Fusion Mineral Paint? What’s the difference?

Most of the chalk style paints on the market are a thicker consistency, leave a powdery soft matte finish and require a protective top coat such as wax.

Fusion is formulated with a built-in primer and topcoat and for most projects Fusion Mineral Paint is all that is required when repainting a clean and sound surface.

Fusion is formulated with a built-in top coat, the 100% acrylic resin. You do not need to use a top coat for water permanency. Lost and Found Decor has a very thorough post about the differences between the products.

17) Can you paint fabric with Fusion mineral paint?

You absolutely can paint fabric with Fusion BUT not all fabrics are created equally and some lend themselves to being painted more easily than others. Read all about it in our Painting Fabric blog post.

vintage french chair gray and white

18) What’s the best brush to use with Fusion Mineral Paint?

One of the secrets to achieving the perfect paint finish is the tools you use and we strongly recommend STAALMEESTER brushes. We also have a helpful blog post on how to choose the right brush for your project.

7 Styles of Staalmeester Bruahes but 15 Options Available. | fusionmineralpaint.com

19) How much coverage do you get with a container of Fusion Mineral Paint?

We have a handy guide and chart that shows you just how much coverage you can get with specific product examples. Generally speaking one 500ml, 16.9 fl oz container will cover 75 square feet. Remember, that includes a built-in top coat.

20) Where can I find examples of projects painted in a specific Fusion Mineral Paint colour?

You can find all of the colours that Fusion carries right here along with descriptions of each colour and photos of projects. Just click on each individual colour swatch to see the photos. We also recommend you follow our Pinterest account. There we have a curated board where we are constantly adding new projects under each individual Fusion paint colour.

21) Where can I buy Fusion Mineral Paint?

You can find your closest Fusion retailer under our Where To Buy section.

22) I am a business owner and I want to sell Fusion in my store. How can I do so?

You can apply to become a Fusion Retailer right here. We have a high volume of requests sent to us daily, but we promise we will be in touch as soon as we possibly can.

Become a Retailer for Fusion Mineral Paint. Retail a Paint Line today!

23) I have a very specific project that I want to paint with Fusion, but I feel I need more help. Who can I ask?

We have a great Facebook group called Paint it Beautiful. There you will find both expert and amateur painters, as well as Fusion Merchants who are able to help answer just about any question or concern you have with your particular project. Everyone is very helpful and supportive and there is no such thing as a dumb question. So come join us there and ask away! You will find lots of inspiration and discover new painting techniques to help you create the look you want for your home.

24) Where else can I connect with other Fusion fans and community members?

We are across social media on all the major platforms. You can follow us on the following:

Instagram  –  https://www.instagram.com/fusionmineralpaint

Pinterest  –  https://www.pinterest.ca/FusionPaint

Twitter  –  https://twitter.com/FusionPaint

Facebook  –  https://www.facebook.com/fusionmineralpaint

And lastly, YouTube! Our YouTube channel has tons of amazing tutorials.

And you can also subscribe to our newsletter! Get Fusion Mineral Paint News right into your email inbox.

Another way to see more Fusion projects is to check different social media platforms with the hashtag: #FusionMineralPaint, #FusionPaint or #Fusion

25) Where can I find out more about your company and Fusion Mineral Paint itself?

You can read all about our founders, how we got started and what makes Fusion Mineral Paint different from other paint in our About Us section.

Original version: HERE

OFFICIAL DISTRIBUTOR OF
FUSION MINERAL PAINT™
QUÉBEC

FUSION MILK PAINT IN YOUR HOME!

We recently added a new product to the very complete FUSIONTM line. We present you FUSIONTM Milk Paint. During the last few months, we received many demands about this paint and due to the enthusiasm of your requests, we decided to make this Canadian line available in Quebec for you.

The 25 colours are as modern as they are vibrant, you will love them!

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF MILK PAINT?

Milk paint is easier to use than making your morning protein shake! Just add water and stir. It offers an incomparable style to your surface as well as a surprising ease of application. See below for all its other qualities which will surely charm you!

  • Provides a Durable Finish
  • Offers Superior Quality
  • Made in Canada
  • Versatile (offers endless styling possibilities)
  • Consistency Control
  • Self-Levelling
  • Infinite Shelf Life (in powder form)
  • Dissolves Easily in Water
  • Chalky matte Finish
  • Dries and Hardens Completely in 30 minutes
  • Recoats in only 30 minutes
  • Needs to be protected by a proper finish
  • For Interior or Exterior Use

PREPARING YOUR SURFACE CAREFULLY BEFORE PAINTING

  • Rough or Unfinished Wood – Dust and Paint
  • FUSIONTM Mineral Paint – Dust, Clean with TSP and Paint
  • Melamine and Thermofoil – Clean with TSP, add Bonding Agent to your Mix and Paint
  • Glossy Surface – Clean with TSP, Remove the Shine with a fine Sandpaper and Paint
  • Previously Waxed Surface – Remove Wax with Solvent and paint

MILK PAINT FUSIONTM

Timeless Benefits, a Modern Formula!

They say good things take time, and that's what we've done with milk paint. We have taken the time to refine the formula of our regular milk paint. Even the good things need a little refreshing, and that's what we did with milk paint. Now it's even easier to mix, and it dissolves easily in water.

FUSIONTM

Summer products for the protection of wood!

What are the right products to use for my outdoor surfaces?

Now that summer is here, it is the perfect time to plan your outdoor renovations. There is nothing better than to work outside during spring and early summer. The temperature is perfect for product application and there are plenty of back-to-back days of good weather. Enjoy those ”WINDOWS” of great weather for outdoor finishing products. We have various products to help you PROTECT YOUR OUTDOOR WOODEN SURFACES.

In this blog article, we’ve categorized them in order to help you select the right solution!

PRODUCTS FOR VERTICAL SURFACES

SOLID COLOR STAIN – OWATROL

  • FINITION MATE OPAQUE (Solid Color Stain) de OWATROL est un imprégnant coloré à base d’eau de très haute qualité destiné à protéger et décorer tous types de surfaces en bois extérieures. Ce produit offre une protection efficace aux parements, poutres, boiseries, meubles et plus! Son adhérence remarquable ainsi que son beau fini opaque mat en fait un produit de choix pour préserver les finitions de votre maison en bois, en béton et même en PVC.

TECH-WOOD STAIN BLANCHON

  • The best option for torrified wood. This semi-opaque product will bond to almost anything, even varnishes!

YACHT VARNISH – INTERIOR / EXTERIOR – BLANCHON

  • The YACHT VARNISH contains a bit of UV protection. It is perfect to give your wooden furniture a natural shine and protection!

PURE TUNG OIL – EVO

  • This oil is perfect to protect teak wood. To retard the greying of the wood as much as possible, refresh it every year by simply giving it a light coating.

RUSTOL – RUST PROTECTOR – OWATROL

  • This protective varnish is applied before repainting a rusty metal surface. It can also stop the rusting process and helps keep its appearance for a long time.

TOP COAT FOR UV PROTECTOR – BLANCHON

  • If you want to preserve the original look of wood, the combination of UV PROTECTOR and TOP COAT FOR UV PROTECTOR is perfect!

FUSION MINERAL PAINT

  • A chalky-looking paint that will stick to almost any surface. Try it on your worn-out patio chair! You will be amazed!

PRODUCTS FOR HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL SURFACES

HYBRI-DECK – PROTECTIVE HYBRID OIL FOR EXTERIOR WOOD – LIGNA

  • This product will give complete protection to a deck within a day. Easy to apply with a brush and no wiping is required. HYBRI-DECK offers effective protection while preserving the natural beauty of the wood!

EXTÉRIA – OUTDOOR WATERPROOF OIL – LIGNA

  • This coloured oil is very resistant for highly solicited horizontal wood surfaces protection. It is very easy to apply and has a stunning matte finish! It will enhance the wood grain while protecting it from moisture and fungus!

With LIGNA Exterior Oils, you will enjoy refreshing your wood surfaces. They require minimal preparation, no sanding or scraping before application.

DYES AND MORE
(VERTICAL WOOD SURFACES)

All of these products need to be protected with a suitable outdoor finishing product.

TANDEM-1 – IMPREGNATING NATURAL STAIN – LIGNA

  • Our traditional and FUNKY colours will seduce you! This stain is compatible with LIGNA oils and BLANCHON varnishes.

MILK PAINT – HOMESTEAD HOUSE

  • This product is an eco-friendly alternative to original paints and must be protected by an outdoor oil like EXTERIA, HYBRI-DECK or TUNG OIL.

MILK PAINT – ZERO VOC – FUSION

  • This product is an eco-friendly alternative to original paints and must be protected by an outdoor oil like EXTERIA, HYBRI-DECK or TUNG OIL.

RUST SPIRIT – RUST ACTIVATOR – OWATROL

  • Must be protected with RUSTOL. It gives a beautiful and natural rusty look.

BRONZE SPIRIT – BLUE OXIDE ACTIVATOR – OWATROL

  • Must be protected with RUSTOL. It gives a beautiful and natural rusty look.

LIFETIME – WOOD TREATMENT – VALHALLA

  • Here is an ecological and non-toxic treatment that ages wood naturally in only 30 minutes.

SHOULD THE WOOD ON MY DECK BE PROTECTED EVEN THOUGH THE WOOD IS TREATED?

Autoclave and immersion-treated wood provides effective protection, but not for a lifetime. We recommend letting the treated wood dry at least one year after its installation and then apply an outdoor finishing oil that will penetrate deeply into the wood. If no protection is applied, the wood will quickly turn grey. You will then see premature cracks due to water infiltration. If you want to know if your wood is well protected, do the water drop test.

WATER DROP TEST!
Put a few drops of water at different places on your surface to be protected. If the drop quickly enters the wood, it is time to apply a protective coating. If it remains on the surface, your wood is well sealed, and you have nothing to worry about!
This simple test allows you to see if your wood is dry enough for an impregnating or film-forming finish to properly bond.


BLOGS

Here is an article about our EXTERIA and HYBRI-DECK oils.

OIL: AN ADVANTAGEOUS OPTION TO PROTECT YOUR WOODEN PATIO

JE DÉCORE – Patios – Vol. 17 No.2 p. 61-63

MARJO RENOV CHRONICLES: HOW TO PROTECT YOUR WOODEN DECK

Our marketing associate had fun challenging our products in the 2020 summer! ✨🥰

As a new homeowner with a head full of projects, she has a strong desire to personalize her new haven 🏡🏡🏡. We will follow her in her projects throughout the summer. 🌞 She will be making chronicles and send feedback on her experiences. There is nothing like getting into the swing of things to explain how a product works step-by-step.

Follow our chronicles in order to see the transformation of her wood porchs from start to finish.

MARJO RENOV STEP 1: STRIPPING

MARJO RENOV STEP 2: SANDING

MARJO RENOV CHRONICLE 03 : APPLICATION

MARJO RENOV CHRONICLE 04 : RESULT

OIL: AN ADVANTAGEOUS OPTION TO PROTECT YOUR WOODEN PATIO

JE DÉCORE – Patios – Vol. 17 No.2 p. 61-63

Protecting exterior wood surfaces requires minimal care, effort and commitment.  While maintenance-free wood patios don’t exist, there are still options to make your life easier, such as applying a protective oil designed for the outdoors.  EVO Home Finishing, a Canadian company that offers innovative ecological solutions for the protection and maintenance of wood, invites you to discover its proven protective oils HYBRI-DECK and EXTÉRIA by LIGNA®.

Made from high quality renewable vegetable oil and resin, these products are great allies for any landscaping project.  They can be used on rough unfinished or stripped wood surfaces.  They are suitable for patios as well as furniture, walls or other wooden elements.  In order to minimize the use of petroleum products, these products are free from alkyd resin.

Protection that does not Flake

EXTÉRIA and HYBRI-DECK exterior oils protect the wood in depth, without forming a film on the surface.  As it permeates, they merge with it and follow its movements as it contracts or retracts with changes in temperature.  Result:  they do not chip! 

LIGNA® oils offer greater hiding power than traditional water-based products, which reduces the cost of treatment per square foot as well as the quantity of containers to throw away.

Quick and Easy Maintenance

Since the oils won’t flake off, there is no need to scrape, sand down to the wood, or even strip when it’s time to give our patio a new layer of protection.  So much time saved!  In most cases, a simple cleaning is sufficient. For optimal results, EVO Home Finishing offers you to use EXTROLIA by LIGNA®, a concentrated cleaner specialized for oiled exterior surfaces.

Compare these two products in one glance!

To learn more about how to use our HYBRI-DECK and EXTERIA products :

OILS OF NATURAL ORIGIN FOR WOOD
BY: EVO HOME FINISHING

MARJO RENOV STEP 04: THE RESULTS

As promised in STEP-03, here are some mishaps that still end on a nice note, the result!

HYBRI-DECK is much more liquid than its congeners from the LIGNA® range. With my beautiful clumsiness, it splashed to perfection! Although I had made sure I had boxes and towels to protect the surface as you can see in the picture. Fortunately, I reacted quickly and the stains completely disappeared.

I was so anxious to see the final results that I forgot to protect my white railing! Resulting in many brown splash marks. Lesson learned! I made sure to be better prepared before applying the second coat. You can see this in the video. My boyfriend thought of protecting the white railing with rags. I will cheer to that!

The product tends to separate as the pigments are heavier. You must have a stick handy to stir often while using the product. For my part, I used a beautiful Lilac branch as I had nothing else at the time! And NO… my porch does not smell flowery.

When my boyfriend and I started attacking the back patio, I had asked him to remove the stairs, so we can sand them separately… The next day, we came to realize that we had forgotten them in a corner!

So this is the end of my Renovation Steps for my porches. I did not oil my pool deck this year as we have too many uncertainties regarding a few repairs. I am very happy with the result of our work, although there are a few small imperfections.

What I wanted to transfer to you through my capsules is that if you don’t try for fear of making mistakes, then you will accomplish nothing. Surround yourself with people who advise you. You will see that your projects will be more and more beautiful and bigger and bigger! But dare to do… jump in! I did…

We look forward to seeing you again for other capsule projects, MARJO RENOV!

DID YOU MISS ONE OF THE STEP IN MARJO RENOV CAPSULES? HERE IS WHERE TO FIND THEM

To read the blog about the HYBRI-DECK application?

Marjorie, Marketing Assistant, EVO HOME FINISHING.

MARJO RENOV STEP 3: APPLICATION

The day to apply the finishing product to my decks had arrived. I had the choice between two different products: EXTERIA or HYBRI-DECK by LIGNA®. These are two great quality products with good advantages. You can read the links below for more detailed information. After evaluating my needs, I opted for HYBRI-DECK.

I wanted to experiment applying this water-based oil over a large area. Water-based products can create overlaps if applied incorrectly. In other words, a darker colour can result if you return to a previous spot and apply fresh product. But no worries, it IS possible to have an even colour with a hybrid oil product as explained in the following statements.

To apply the product, I chose a 4-inch A. RICHARD SYNTHETIC STAIN BRUSH. These brushes are great! The handle unscrews, and you can replace it with a longer one. You can therefore work standing up. I was advised to choose the 4-inch width since my porch planks are 4 inches. Great advice, isn’t it?

Before starting with HYBRI-DECK, it is important to have an application plan. Let me explain; the product dries super quick. You have a waiting period between coats of 20 to 30 minutes at most. It’s great because your project can be completed in one day. But at a certain point, I had to be patient because the length of my arms didn’t allow me to continue any further without having to step on my fresh application to make my second coat. Hey, when the ice cubes in your Sangria don’t have time to melt before your next sip!

To avoid creating the famous overlap marks, you must work in the direction of the board, one board at a time. Honestly, you must have a good work method!  My boyfriend and I worked as a team; I was on the porch while he was applying under the railing as well as the front boards. He was literally … at my feet!! hahaha.

During application, the wood must be soaked, without leaving any product on the surface. I repeat because this information is very important, we soak and we spread. Therefore, the overlap marks will be almost zero or even nonexistent. After the first two boards, I had already mastered the technique. You must work the product only when wet (wet product/soaked wood). It is especially important that you make sure that all the product soaked into the wood leaving no product to dry on the surface. It is designed to protect IN the wood rather than ON the wood. I especially did not want the product to peel off like paint does.

A wet product is never the same colour as a dry product. It changes as it dries. After a few hours, the colour was like my sample and I was relieved. That is why it is important to do colour testing before starting a project. I would say the surface takes on its true colour a good month after applying the product. I chose Brandy because I wanted to match the red of my house. I love it! Plus, it even sounds great! Having a Brandy on Marjorie’s Balcony!

Even though my porch project is finished; I do have another step! STEP 4: THE RESULT

I found it as funny as it was instructive to be able to share my mishaps because as we all know, no one is perfect! I also have some pictures of the final result from my three porches and I can’t wait to share them with you.

For more information on A.RICHARD BRUSHES?

For more information on HYBRI-DECK?

Marjorie, Marketing Assistant, EVO HOME FINISHING.