Maintenance is often a barrier when it comes to choosing your floor protection. At LIGNA®we are convinced that an oiled floor is an excellent choice. We, therefore, want to give you the tools and advice to facilitate your understanding of the life cycle of oiled wood. In this article, we will summarize the difference between SOLIA and SOLIA+ and how to use them well.
With LIGNA®’s maintenance bundle, you will be a professional in the maintenance of oiled wood.
Was your floor oiled at the factory? If so, no problem at all! The LIGNA® range of maintenance products is designed for both field-applied oils and pre-oiled wood.
STEP 1 • SOLIA – REGULAR CLEANER FOR OILED WOOD
SOLIA is the symbol of our cleaning products. It is the solution for a weekly maintenance of oiled woods. On the one hand, you can use it for your daily cleaning, but in addition, you can also use it for small daily messes. It cleans and degreases, leaving no residue on the surface. If you have an oiled floor, you should have a bottle of SOLIA at home!
SOLIA is a concentrated product to be diluted in water. You will only need one or two capfuls per litre of water to wash your surface. The dirtier it is, the more capfuls (reasonably) you will need.
It has a pleasant smell and is VOC-free. Furthermore, you don’t need to rinse it out! Isn’t that just marvellous?
SOLIA is not just a simple cleaner; its solvent-free composition and neutral pH cleans without damaging the surface. Made from coconut and soybean oils, it hydrates the wood and prevents the surface from drying out. It will help keep your wood beautiful over a longer period.
STEP 2 • SOLIA+ PROTECTIVE CLEANER FOR OILED WOOD
SOLIA+ is a monthly protector that is used in rotation with SOLIA. It is also composed of coconut and soybean oils, but additionally, it is supplemented with vegetable wax. This wax creates a thin layer of protection on the surface of the wood preventing it from absorbing the original oil. It is normal that over time, the oil seeps deeper through the wood, giving way to the wax which will protect your oiled wood surface better and longer. In addition, the wax makes the surface soft to the touch and increases its durability.
It is possible to give a little shine with a mop during its application. The satin matte appearance of your floor will therefore be preserved. To avoid creating too much difference in lustre, we recommend applying it over the entire surface and not just locally.
SOLIA+ is ready to use and is available with a spray for ease of application.
Why not just do the maintenance with SOLIA+? This product is not designed for regular maintenance. The build-up of wax on an oiled floor can create a thick film on the surface which causes white marks. If this happens, don’t worry, your floor is still intact and protected. This wax film can be easily removed with the EXTREMO cleaner.
During the first year after applying oil, you will need no other product. If after a visual assessment there are no signs of wear or stains, you can continue your maintenance as described in STEP-1 • SOLIA and STEP-2 • SOLIA+.
As soon as your oiled wood surface shows stains or signs of wear, you should follow STEP-3 • EXTREMO and STEP-4 • GENERIO.
Understanding the right technic for the maintenance of oiled wood!
Housekeeping is not always our cup of tea! After spending time, money and energy redecorating, it is quite normal to want to get the right cleaning products so that your new space will stay beautiful for longer. An oiled floor requires special care. We have all the products you need from the small maintenance task to the heavy-duty industrial clean. Here, we will help you understand how to maintain oiled wood using the OILED WOOD MAINTENANCE CYCLE.
Before beginning: A little theory!
Wood is a living material, even though the tree has been cut back and forth for years. Hardwood floors contract or expand with humidity and ambient temperature; it’s a natural fluctuation. We must therefore find a product that remains flexible but stays resistant!
The difference between an Oil and a Varnish
A varnish is a film-forming product: Which means that to protect the wood, the product dries on the surface, creating a film of a hardness that varies depending on the varnish chosen. Several synthetic components are added to it to increase its flexibility and grip. When it is worn, it must be replaced. A complete sanding of the surface is necessary to give 3 new coats of varnish.
An oil is a penetrating product: Which means that it nourishes the wood by protecting it from the inside. It penetrates the pores of the wood and this is what allows it to follow the climatic variations that the material undergoes during the year without peeling or cracking. LIGNA® oils are applied easily in a single coat or two depending on the oil chosen. When your surface is worn, you simply need to clean it with the right product before applying a new coat of oil on top of the old one.
The importance of the OILED WOOD MAINTENANCE CYCLE
The wood acts like a sponge. It absorbs oil, which nourishes it by preventing it from cracking and tarnishing. In addition, the oil saturates the pores of the wood and protects it as well as seals it against moisture and stains. Over time, wood continues to absorb oil, which decreases the waterproof resistance. Using oil finishes is like an ancestral art and, like any great painter, we have our optimal recipes to preserve it and help extend its lifespan.
A MAINTENANCE CYCLE lasts 1 to 2 years depending on the use of your surface. At LIGNA® we want to simplify all the life stages of your wooden surface and for this, we have developed 4 different maintenance products. They will be used at key times, allowing you to extend the life of your oil.
To slow down the natural absorption of oil in wood, SOLIA and SOLIA+ come to the rescue. Establish an alternating monthly routine during the first years of life of your oiled surface. SOLIA will clean up your small messes and SOLIA+ will add a thin protective film on the surface. Read the rest of the article in:
After you have established your routine with the products in STEP 1 and 2, you should evaluate the look of your surface. If it’s still beautiful with an even colour, continue with your routine for another year.
When your floor becomes dull, the colour no longer seems even and stains become encrusted, that is the time to move on to STEPS 3 and 4. EXTREMO is a powerful cleaner that will remove stains and GENERIO will revive the look of your wood surface. Read the complete article here:
This article is devoted to STEP-3 • EXTREMO and to STEP-4 • GENERIO of the OILED WOOD MAINTENANCE CYCLE. If your oiled surface does not show any stains or wear, you can consult the article on STEP-1 • SOLIA and STEP-2 • SOLIA+.
Depending on the use of your oiled wood surface, you will not need to refresh the finish for 3 to 7 years for a floor and 8 to 15 years for a wall or for furniture. To enjoy a better and longer-lasting surface, complete the OILED WOOD MAINTENANCE CYCLE below:
STEP-3 • EXTREMO – INTENSIVE CLEANER FOR OILED WOOD
EXTREMO is the magic eraser of the LIGNA® family. It removes the tougher stains that SOLIA or SOLIA+ have not been able to overcome. It also removes the black marks left by shoes as well as the white marks created by an over-accumulation of protective wax.
It is designed to clean an entire surface, but it can still be used locally, gently. For local stains, it should be used with a mop or cloth. Over a large area, you can apply it using a polisher with a red pad before refreshing your surface with oil.
If after using EXTREMO; if you see a difference in the lustre, you can make a local correction with SOLIA+ or GENERIO.
EXTREMO intensive cleaner is only used occasionally! Its application removes some of the original oil. It removes traces of grease or wax to allow the penetration of GENERIO maintenance oil or a coat of refreshing oil.
STEP-4 • GENERIO – MAINTENANCE OIL FOR OILED WOOD
GENERIO is a waterborne hybrid product. In other words, it’s a water-based oil (sounds strange, but true). It is not a cleaner, but rather a maintenance oil that will give your surface a boost.
Using GENERIO allows your floor to stay beautiful longer by adding a very thin mist of oil to fill in wear and tear on the surface. It revitalizes your wood by giving a lustre a little more of a satin gloss than the SOLIA+ without needing to polish it. It is applied to a clean surface previously washed with EXTREMO to allow good absorption of the product. Its hybrid composition results in a quick drying time. It comes with a ready-to-use spray for ease of application.
Using GENERIO will save you time and money by extending the life of the finishing oil applied to your surface.
Why not use GENERIO weekly? Since it is designed to dry quickly, applying it too frequently can create a surface film. This product is designed to penetrate the wood. Apply no more than a light mist and use a slightly damp mop to even it out. If the surface scratches easily after two hours, you have applied too much GENERIO. Simply remove the product with EXTREMO and repeat the procedure by applying less GENERIO.
In conclusion, the OILED WOOD MAINTENANCE CYCLE consists of 4 steps. Depending on the wear and tear of your surface, either new or worn, you will follow STEPS 1 and 2 or STEPS 3 and 4. If you see it is time to apply a refreshing oil, we have a perfect item for you:
Fish glue was traditionally made from the bladder of sturgeon and certain other freshwater fish. This variety is difficult to find today and gives way to a more affordable glue, made up of the bones, skin and heads of various fish. Its high quality is due to its high collagen rate.
In the paste, fish glue was very popular. Its use was diverse, ranging from making bows and arrows, repairing scrolls and leather and wooden tools, making several inks and paints thanks to its binding properties, etc. Natural glues were put aside after the second war following the advent of vinyl glues.
Fish glue is still used today; for preserving old manuscripts, for repairing shoes and furniture. It is also used in paint, bookbinding, gliding, box making, blueprint paper, gummed tapes and letterpress printing plates.
WHY USE THIS NATURAL GLUE?
Although its popularity is no longer what it used to be, fish glue is one of the best natural glues for several reasons. It has qualities that surpass vinyl glues for many projects, including amateur and professional cabinetmaking.
1. It is Biodegradable
Ecological and natural, it comes from fish residues that are not intended for human consumption. It releases no volatile compounds that are harmful to humans and the environment. It is also non-toxic and 100% biodegradable.
2. It leaves no Residue
Fish glue cleans up with water leaving NO RESIDUE ON THE SURFACE. This particularity is very practical when it is time to apply a finishing product to a duly restored wooden piece of furniture. Synthetic glues tend to leave an invisible residue that prevents finishing products from soaking in well. This can cause smudges or poor adhesion.
3. It is very Resistant
When hardened, it offers a mechanical resistance of 3200 lbs per square inch. It is also resistant to solvents once dried!
4. It is Food Grade
It is commonly used in food manufacturing processes. Our fish glue is thus perfect for assembling cutting boards, barrels or various utensils that touch wood.
5. It is Reversible even once dried
Fish glue comes off easily with hot water vapour. This gives a certain margin of error during assembly. It also allows you to restore or repair a broken part on a piece of furniture. It is for this reason that cabinetmakers and craftsmen love it when adjusting wooden structures with several parts. Since it takes 12 hours to harden, it gives time to position and assembles perfectly before drying.
6. It Bonds Multiple Materials
Wood;
Paper;
Cardboard;
Fabric;
Veneers;
Marquetry;
Glass;
Ceramics;
Cor;
Leather; etc.
7. It can be applied Cold
Fish glue is the only animal glue that is applied cold. It is therefore not necessary to heat it or handle it before applying it.
IN SUMMARY
With industrialization, many ancestral methods have been abandoned due to the speed and cost of manufacturing, as well as obsolescence. Melamine furniture is less expensive than hardwood furniture, but it cannot be restored indefinitely and will end up in the landfill if there is a minor breakage.
It is a good idea to assemble or repair wooden furniture with a reversible glue such as fish glue. This will be easily repairable without the risk of breaking it. For a handyman or a cabinetmaker, it is more practical due to its slow setting time.
With its many qualities, it is an asset to keep in your workshop.
Easy to steam off;
Reactivates with water;
Can bond multiple surfaces;
Food grade glue;
Slow setting time;
Bond strength of 3200 lbs per square inch;
No stripper or solvent can dissolve it;
Resists frost;
Non-flammable;
Can be kept for several years in its original container;
Cleans with water before drying;
Leaves no residue on the surface when cleaned;
Can be mixed with pigments;
Biodegradable.
OTHER USES
Medium for a Crackled Texture
Mixed in equal parts with Arabic Gum, it makes an excellent cracking medium to give a beautiful antique effect to furniture. It creates a thin transparent film, which cracks as it dries.
Pore Filler
It’s a preparation, an amalgam which allows the pores of the wood to be blocked to obtain a perfectly smooth surface which will not absorb the varnish and which cannot be seen.
Clumping Medium
Fining is an old process that corresponds to the clarification and stabilization phase of wine. When wine ferments, particles and residues are formed. Consumers rather appreciate clear and non-cloudy wines. In conventional wines, a “glue” is often added which will make it possible to agglomerate the proteins and particles in the form of flakes which settle at the bottom of the vats and will be eliminated. This fining process also exists for beers.
We know the decor trend for concrete-looking walls is skyrocketing, and we have the perfect product for your new decor. NATURACHAUX is a mixture of air lime and a mineral additive reinforced with silicate. It allows you to discover the warm authenticity of the walls of the olden days or the intensity of a current industrial style.
NaturaChaux coating can be applied on:
A kitchen backsplash
A bedroom wall
A fireplace mantel
Etc.
It is applied directly to PRIMAIRE CHAUX (bonding primer). It is mandatory to apply a primer on a cement finish, drywall, fibre cement, plaster, paint or whenever the support of a wall is unknown to you before using NATURACHAUX.
It goes wonderfully with an oiled or varnished wood decor.
It lets your support breathe while being impermeable to runoff water (non-stagnant).
It can be used indoors, on a vertical surface only.
HERE ARE A FEW TIPS:
NATURACHAUX MUST BE APPLIED IN THIN COATS
No more than 1/8 in.? WHY? It’s simple, the water in the mixture evaporates and if the layer is too thick, it won’t dry at the same pace as its outer part (facing you) compared to its inner part (facing the wall). This can cause cracking or poor adhesion. It is the same principle as with plaster or terracotta.
NATURACHAUX MUST DRY SLOWLY
If you want to apply it on your fireplace mantel, this is a perfect place to help regulate humidity in the room. On the other hand, we recommend waiting a minimum of 7 days before heating the fireplace to allow time for the product to dry slowly.
This past summer I launched the ”MARJO RENOV” project on EVO HOME FINISHING’s social media with the update of my galleries. I really enjoyed the whole experience and I must confess, I was overwhelmed on a few “self-home small projects”.
If you have NO idea what the MARJO RENOV capsules are, I highly recommend you to check them out. Not to brag, but they are really entertaining.
I love what is recycled, and I must admit that I particularly like the look of natural wood. Our house has two pellet stoves, and we had to buy several pellet bags to keep us warm in winter. So we had a few wooden pallets lying around in the shed and a lot of projects in mind!
My boyfriend is my accomplice, so he made me a beautiful coffee table out of pallet wood. He even took advantage of the fact that I was going to have to oil it, so I could blog about it! It was great teamwork.
HOW TO OIL A PALLET WOOD TABLE!
HOW TO OIL PALLET WOOD WITH LIGNA® PRONTO
I must say that of all the colours available with PRONTO, I immediately fell in love with EBONY. Black is very glamorous and timeless. The oil is not opaque and the pigmentation marries with the colour of the wood, resulting in a black with a very dark brown tone. A beautiful warm hue for winter evenings.
First I covered my floor with a large plastic sheet since I was working in my living room. Oil is much more liquid than paint and usually, you need to have a solvent nearby for small spills. Have I mentioned that I’m clumsy? No? I’m no stranger to messes.
My boyfriend made me a beautiful coffee table in the afternoon!
Use protection before you begin!
PRONTO EBONY 🙂
I chose to apply PRONTO with a brush and an applicator pad. The brush is easier to get between the cracks and through the many holes of the wood. The pad is great for flat surfaces, and it doesn’t leave too much oil on the area. Always remember, an oil that dries on the surface remains sticky !!!
I sanded with 120 grit to open the wood grain. Unlike paint which sits on the surface, the oil must penetrate deep into the wood. That’s why you have to sand before applying oil. Wood from pallets is more rougher and irregular, which gives a beautiful rustic effect! However, you must be careful to sand carefully to eliminate the risk of splinters.
We sand thoroughly at 120 before oiling!
We fill the holes with the edge of the brush!
We begin with the underside of the furniture so that it can dry on its legs!
Applying oil with a brush is not the cheapest way to apply the PRONTO. It leaves more oil on the surface than the wood can absorb, so there’s a bit more waste when wiping it off. This isn’t so bad for small projects, but it’s often better to apply with an applicator pad when possible.
After waiting a few minutes, as recommended on the label, I wiped off the excess product on the surface with a white cotton cloth. If you leave the excess product on the surface without wiping it off, it is likely to remain sticky. A sticky tabletop is unpleasant to the touch.
After doing both sides (I started with the underside of the table for practical reasons), I waited the required time before using my table, a minimum of 9 hours. Do not place hot cups directly on the surface and avoid anything that is damp or wet. I recommend that you read the product webpage for all the maintenance instructions. In Marjo’s words, LIGNA’s web pages are ”on the mark”.
This table used a little more than a 237 mL can. Since the brush application caught me short, I had to buy an extra container. I didn’t have it at home, so I rushed to the store to get a second one! Okay, I was fast on my feet here, but there are no apparent overlap marks at all.
So, what to do with the rest of the container? My boyfriend made me some window tablets just so I could put some fresh greenery in my kitchen. Here are some pictures!
I most likely would have found a very nice and cheap piece of furniture for my living room on used product sales platforms, but I really wanted to have something unique and rustic.
Now I look at my table and can say that I am really glad. It is far from perfect, but in my opinion, there is a certain amount of perfection in any imperfection. That’s what makes me love it even more.
Great news! Here is a new collection of ‘Funky’ colours for the LIGNA®️ brand!
We wanted to have a larger selection of colours as well as more vibrant variations than the traditional colour chart. We had a lot of fun creating this collection and are happy to share it with you.
WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF THE NEW FUNKY COLOURS?
Do you like white walls, simple design and love ACCENT furniture and accessories? FUNKY colours are definitely for you!
Do you craft children’s furniture or are you restoring one? Try our new, more vibrant and exciting colours.
You can stain your furniture in two or more shades! Yes, you can be as creative as you want!
WHERE TO FIND THE NEW FUNKY COLOUR CHART?
You can easily find them listed by number on the PRONTO and TANDEM-1 pages:
20- Lemon
21- Tangerine
22- Raspberry
23- Taupe
24- Olive
25- Avocado
26- Steel Blue
27- Twilight
28- Aubergine
WANT MORE COLOURS?
You can easily create your own custom colour palette by mixing them together. You can also overlay the colours by using TANDEM-1 as a background colour and PRONTO as an accent colour. This will add much more depth to your surface! The best way to see these new colours up close is to purchase our 20 mL sample sizes and try them on your favourite wood species!
BLACK SOAP is an ESSENTIAL multi-use and ecological soap to have in your home. For the good of the planet as well as that of your wallet, here is a non-exhaustive list of all the places where the BLACK SOAP can replace your regular detergent.
In addition to being an effective cleaner, we also have a lavender essential oil added version. A pleasant smell will follow you from one end to the other!
INDOOR USE
For floors and tiles
Thanks to its rich olive oil composition, BLACK SOAP cleans, sanitizes, nourishes thoroughly and makes all floors shine (tiles, ceramics, plastic coatings, marbles, wooden floors, etc.)
Directions for use: Dilute 2 tablespoons of black soap in 5 litres of hot water. Wash your surface (for an oiled floor; wipe off excess water). No need to rinse.
For the kitchen
BLACK SOAP is highly degreasing. It cleans and removes all grease stains on stoves, hobs of all types, stove hoods, ovens, worktops, sinks, cutting boards, etc.
Usage: Put a small amount of black soap on a sponge and wash. Rinse with warm water to remove grease stains.
Tip: When the oven is warm, apply black soap to the dirty areas, let stand overnight. Clean and rinse.
For dishes
BLACK SOAP also cleans and degreases frying pans and fryers. It preserves shiny stainless-steel pans. It also makes glasses shine in the dishwasher.
Usage: Put a little black soap on a sponge. Wash, then rinse with warm water. For the dishwasher, 1 tbsp. (15 ml) is sufficient.
For copper and silverware
It cleans and shines copper and silverware.
Directions for use: Dilute 3 to 4 tsp. (45 to 60 mL) BLACK SOAP in a bowl of hot water. Soak your items for 5-10 minutes. There is no need to rinse, simply drain and dry.
For the windows
BLACK SOAP cleans the interior and exterior windows for impeccable clarity and cleanliness.
Directions: Dilute 1 tsp. (5 ml) BLACK SOAP in 2 litres of hot water. Wash with a cloth and wipe dry with a squeegee or microfiber cloth. No need to rinse.
For leather
Thanks to its composition rich in olive oil, BLACK SOAP cleans, maintains and nourishes leathers (sofas, car interiors, jackets, saddlery, etc.).
Usage: Put a small quantity of pure BLACK SOAP on a clean cloth, rub and rinse with warm water. The leather thus regains its shine and remains flexible.
For laundry
BLACK SOAP can be used both as a traditional detergent in the washing machine and as a stain remover to overcome difficult stains before washing.
Directions: pour 3 to 4 tsp. (45 to 60 ml) pure BLACK SOAP in the washing machine dispenser.
Before washing: Place pure BLACK SOAP on the stain. Leave to act for 15 minutes, then put the garment in the machine (for stubborn stains, let the black soap act for several days, while waiting for the next load).
For the Fireplace
For the home BLACK SOAP effectively removes soot from the glass of all types of fireplace doors.
Usage: Put pure BLACK SOAP on newspaper or a cloth. Rub and rinse with warm water.
For paint brushes
It guarantees your brushes a long life and keeps the fibres beautiful. They will remain flexible and pleasant to handle.
Usage: Dilute a small amount of pure BLACK SOAP in lukewarm water and soak your brushes in it. The soap will help dislodge the paint, you can use a brush to wash it thoroughly.
For stains on fabrics
It removes stains of oil, grease and paint on fabrics. BE CAREFUL when a stain is accidentally passed through the dryer, it penetrates the fabric and is therefore much more difficult to remove.
How to use: Spread pure BLACK SOAP on the stain. Rub lightly and let stand for several hours. Repeat the operation then wash the garment normally in the machine.
BLACK SOAP makes this decorative lime plaster waterproof and easier to clean.
How to use: Spread the black soap using a sponge or sprayer (diluted with 20 to 30% water), and smooth with a STAINLESS-STEEL TROWEL. Remove excess soap. Continue the operation until the support no longer absorbs soap.
EXTERIOR USES
For exterior structures and woodwork
BLACK SOAP cleans, sanitizes and deeply nourishes galleries, flower boxes, wooden garden furniture, etc.
Directions: Dilute 2 tsp. (30 mL) BLACK SOAP in 1 litre of hot water. Scrub with a brush. There is no need to rinse.
For the garden
BLACK SOAP is used on roses, ornamental plants, fruit trees, vegetable gardens, etc. It protects your plants from aphids, mealybugs, red spiders and many others.
Directions: dilute 5 tsp in a spray bottle. (75 mL) liquid BLACK SOAP in 1 litre of water. Spray this mixture on the infested plant. You can use it as a precaution.
For means of transport and outdoor leisure
BLACK SOAP cleans and shines motorcycles, cars, bikes, boats, etc.
Directions: Dilute 2 tsp. (30 ml) black soap in a litre of water. Wash with a broom or microfiber cloth, then rinse. It is also used to clean the interior of cars, toys, tools, bikes, linens, etc. It cleans decks and hulls of boats, in wood or plastic. Recommended for its effectiveness and its non-polluting virtues.
For barbecues
BLACK SOAP cleans the inside and outside the barbecue and also degreases the grates.
How to use: Put a little pure BLACK SOAP on a brush. Rub and rinse with warm water. For grease on the grates, put pure BLACK SOAP and leave to act overnight. Rinse.
For pets
It gently cleanses and shines the fur of animals. BLACK SOAP has antiparasitic properties, so it helps prevent skin allergies (eczema, fungus, etc.). It cleans, nourishes and brightens the hair of horses.
Instructions for use: Wet your pet before placing a nut or two of black soap on it. Rub well, then rinse thoroughly until there is no soap left. In the case of pest control, repeat the operation leaving it to act for a few minutes before rinsing.
Other: You can use the BLACK SOAP for everything that comes into contact with your pet; maintenance of kennels, carpets, toys, etc.
For organic farming
It can be used to wash the udders of cows and goats daily before milking. BLACK SOAP removes dirt and sanitizes all equipment while being safe for animals.
How to use: Dilute black soap in 1 litre of hot water. Using a clean cloth, gently wash the udders of the animals.
BLACK SOAP is an ESSENTIAL ecological soap to have in your home. Our black soap is made from potash and olive oil according to the Marseille tradition. This product has proven itself in Europe, and we are happy to let you know!
Unlike the traditional dark green, almost black version, our ÉVO BLACK SOAP is pale green in colour. The secret of its colour lies in its slow and lower cooking! Besides being more eco-friendly, it makes it much more irresistible, right?
BLACK SOAP is a multi-use soap:
Solvent-free;
No colouring;
No preservative;
100 % natural;
Cleans effectively;
Degreases;
Shines surfaces;
Disinfects without the need for rinsing;
Very economical concentrate;
Completely biodegradable;
Safe for mankind, plants and animals;
Respectful of the environment.
What makes BLACK SOAP so wonderful?
First: This product has a simple composition of potash, olive oil and water. This makes it a soap without solvent, without dye, without preservatives and 100% natural.
✨ It is therefore completely biodegradable, safe for humans, plants and animals and respectful of the environment. ✨
Secondly: BLACK SOAP is not only ecological, but it is also an effective cleaner that degreases, shines surfaces and sanitizes without the need for rinsing.
Thirdly: BLACK SOAP is a concentrate which makes it a very economical product.
Good to know: BLACK SOAP is an excellent agent for sanitizing surfaces. It does not kill bacteria but dislodges them from the surface thanks to the power of the potash. That’s why it is such a good cleaner. You can combine it with several essential oils to change the smell or add properties.
Dilute 5 to 10 drops of citrus essential oils, with sanitizing properties, in black soap before cleaning the floors.
To leave a scent in your laundry, add a few drops of essential oils to black soap (lavender, tea-tree, etc).
In a spray bottle, dilute a tablespoon of black soap, 1 litre of water and a dozen drops of lemon or rosemary essential oils: Practical to use, this “homemade” household product is ecological and economical.
Do you want to know where to get this magical product? Call one of our retailers!
Making an epoxy cast river
table is a project that many do-it-yourselfers want to do. To carry out this kind
of project, it is important to understand the principles related to epoxy
casting. I will share here the tricks of the trade to succeed a beautiful
wooden and epoxy table.
Practice first on a small
model
My first advice is to
undertake a small project before embarking on a big adventure. A small side
table, a bedside table or a decorative tablet are examples of small projects to
realize in order to develop your experience.
1. Epoxy river
table: it starts with a good waterproof mould
First, you need to build a
waterproof mould. It must be made of a strong and smooth material. Normally,
melamine is a material of choice. It must be perfectly sealed since the epoxy
casting is particularly liquid. Your mould could be drained of some of its contents
if there is even a small open joint. When I build my moulds, I use Lepage “No
More Nail” glue to fix the edges. Once assembled, I seal the inner edges with a
micro-joint (very thin) acrylic caulking of clear silicone.
On the outer joints, I apply red tape “Tape
Isoclad” therefore making sure there will be no loss of epoxy.
2. “Grease the
mould” to help with unmolding the epoxy
Although melamine is not
porous, the epoxy moulding is very adherent and tends to stick as it hardens. I
highly recommend coating your mould with an aerosol release agent. This will
greatly facilitate the unmolding in the end. Instead of the release agent, you
can also use carnauba (Carbamex)
furniture wax*.
*After testing, we noticed
that Carbamex wax works best on a mould.
3. Prepare the wood
pieces
Pieces of wood to be
incorporated into the epoxy must be clean and free of friable bark. To minimize
the risk of bubbles, it is important here to completely seal the wooden
portions in contact with the moulding epoxy. Especially the board tips, the
thickness and the portions with knots or beginnings of branches. The wood
contains air. This air is likely to escape when the piece of wood is heated for
many hours by the epoxy that has been poured.
The best way to seal the
pieces together is to apply a thin layer of epoxy. Regular Epoxy Nu-Lustre 55
is very suitable. A container of 473 mL is normally enough for a table of 2
feet x 4 feet. After pouring a small sliver that I spread everywhere with the
brush, it will be necessary to let dry at least 24 hours.
For this step, some use
varnish, lacquer or shellac to seal. Personally, I have better results with a
thin layer of epoxy and this is also what the epoxy manufacturer recommends.
In the case of a table
where only the river would be epoxy and not the top, we can seal only the
thickness of the boards that touch the epoxy. The wooden top can remain natural
or be oiled, for example.
4. Secure the
pieces of wood firmly to the bottom of the mould
Most wood species are less
massive than the moulding epoxy. If the pieces are not well attached to the
mould, they will tend to rise and will partially float on the liquid epoxy.
From underneath, insert 2 screws
through the piece of melamine to hold your pieces in place. Another technique
is to attach from above with ties and clamps. But for smaller projects, this
reduces the ease of work at the time of casting.
5. Important:
the temperature of the product, air and surfaces must be around 24 degrees Celsius
The moulding epoxy is
slightly exothermic. This means that the catalytic and hardening chemical
reaction gives off less heat than regular epoxies (regular epoxies emit so much
heat when applied in a layer thicker than 1/8th inch, that they
heat, crack, make bubbles or strange effects).
This characteristic of the
moulding epoxy – the low exotherm – explains why the setting time is longer
than that of a standard 100% solid epoxy. Normally, about 3 ½ days (84 hours)
are required for curing layers 2 to 3 inches thick.
It is important to note
that the temperature of the product, air and surfaces can accelerate or slow
down the curing process. If it is cold; it will be longer. If it is hot; it
will be faster. It is therefore recommended to work in a room heated to 24
degrees Celsius and have tempered the product at least 24 hours before.
It can also be noted that a
thin layer of moulding epoxy (approximately ½ inch) will take longer to harden than
a thicker layer (2 or 3 inches) under equal conditions.
6. Calculate
the approximate amount of epoxy required
To get an idea of the
amount of moulding epoxy required for your river table, you need to calculate
the volume of the river as accurately as possible. Here is my formula for
converting a volume (cubic inches) to litres of epoxy: width (in inches) x
length (in inches) x thickness (in inches) divided by 61 = the approximate
number of litres required.
For example, for an epoxy
river of 6” x 32” x 2.5” = 480 cubic inches/61 = 7.86 litres of epoxy required.
7. Stain the resin or a colourless epoxy?
If you want a colour epoxy
stream, you first have to integrate the pigment into the resin (component A). The
regular moulding epoxy if ideal for coloured rivers.
For opaque colours, liquid
dyes are normally used. Do not exceed 10% of the volume of
the resin.
For metallic colours, powdered
pigments are preferred for this type of project. A
small amount stains greatly. You have to go gradually, little by little.
If you want a colourless epoxy
river, I suggest you consider the purchase of “UV resistant” moulding epoxy. It
is more crystalline at the base and is more resistant to yellowing caused by UV
exposure over the years. It is, however, much more expensive than the regular
version, intended to be coloured.
8. Catalyze the resin with the hardener
The mixing ratio is 2 parts
resin (component A) for 1-part hardener (component B). In a clean, dry container, mix 2 parts resin with 1
part hardener.
9. Mix
Be sure to scrape the sides
and bottom of the container during mixing.
Mix for 3-4 minutes with a drill
equipped with a paint mixer. After mixing, transfer the mixture to a similar
container and mix again for an additional 1 to 2 minutes.
Once the mixing is
complete, the mixture can remain in a pot and be worked for a period of about 6
hours.
10. Cast
Simply
pour the contents into the mould.
11. If there are bubbles…
Wait 15 to 20
minutes, then heat with an embossing iron or lightly turn a lit propane torch
on the surface at a 45° angle with the tip of the torch at least 6 inches from
the surface until all the bubbles have disappeared. The carbon dioxide at the
end of the flame facilitates the release of bubbles and their bursting. This will help ensure a smooth finish like glass. If latent bubbles exit, a
similar operation after 30 minutes may be necessary. Do not try to remove
bubbles after more than 2 hours: this affects the smooth finish of the cast
epoxy.
12. Protect from dust
Since pouring epoxy
requires about 3 days of hardening, it is especially important to cover your
table to protect it from dust. Personally, I
normally use large cardboard or masonite.
13. Unmolding
It is crucial that the
moulding epoxy has cured completely before unmolding. You must gently insert a
spatula or a flat trowel between the mould and the edge of the table and while
protecting your work, gently remove the melamine surrounding it.