I am not a fan of compulsively buying Christmas decorations that will end up in the trash. I like things that aren’t complicated and don’t take forever to do. I love things that are practical and have several functions at the same time🙂.
This is why I fell in love with a window paint recipe. First, I was sorely lacking in Christmas decorations. The thing is, I don’t buy much. Secondly, my 5-year-old son was going to be able to unleash his holiday creativity on our huge kitchen window! 😀 Ultimate bliss! I work for a company that offers the main component of this window paint recipe, White Chalk.
First, I asked myself several questions which, in a mother’s opinion, are important:
Is White Chalk toxic?
(Like all powdered pigments, you must be careful not to inhale or swallow large quantities. Therefore, if you don’t intend to make window painting a career, there are no counter-indications).
Does it clean off easily?
(YES it does!!! White chalk is a mild, soft abrasive. A little like baking soda. We remove the bulk with a damp cloth and pass again to remove what remains. Not complicated, just the way mom’s love).
If I put colour in this paint, will it stay in the windows?
(I didn’t test with multiple components for colour. I went with food colouring that I had in my cabinets, like most parents who aspire to be great bakers on their children’s birthday. I didn’t overdo it, just a few drops to give a little pastel shade. No streaks and no hassle!)
In short, after having had satisfactory answers to these questions, I made this simple recipe:
One part white Chalk;
Two parts water;
A few drops of food colouring to obtain the desired colour;
It’s simple, the recipe adjusts to the thickness wanted. You can also add more white chalk if you add more colouring.
Now you can enjoy a coffee or hot chocolate while the children play! 🙂 😀 😮
Hemp oil is a little-known wood finishing product on the market. This oil has been used on wood for a few decades, but as it is made by small producers, few measures have been established to make it known and market it. This is what has made it a marginal and unknown product.
With the growth in the use of hemp fiber in buildings and textiles, this renewable resource offers interesting properties. It has favoured the exposure of several hemp producers in Quebec.
Hemp oil is also gaining popularity in our pantry. Either as a component in various by-products or simply pure, to enhance salads and other cooked dishes.
Always with an objective to offer you healthy finishes and to minimize our carbon impact, we took a closer look into this product. Its siccative properties and its appearance, lighter than linseed oil or tung oil, make it a product that will certainly find its place in your workshop. This oil can be used to protect wooden kitchen tools such as wood spoons or even cutting boards.
As we are concerned about the Quebec economy, this local product fits perfectly with the “buy from home” movement and promotes our participation in a local economy.
Offering a 100% vegetable product is directly related to our values. Furthermore, we wanted it to be organically grown! The use of pesticides in agriculture is also a concern for us and we want to be a part of the organic line of products.
We have entered into a partnership with a Quebec organic hemp producer to offer you a pure product with the lowest possible impact on our environment. EVO HOME FINISHINGS is proud to now offer our first 100% Quebec finishing product! “From the seed … to your workshop”.
What does it mean to white sand a floor? For those who work in the construction field or renovation, this question may seem obvious. Did a question mark pop up in your mind and it was out of curiosity that you clicked on the link to this article? Or maybe you must accomplish this task without quite knowing how? In this article, we will teach you about this simple, but very important process, which is part of the PREPARATION stage before the application of a finishing product.
1. What does ”White Sanding” mean?
Sanding a floor clean involves removing the top layer of the old, worn finish and exposing the wood underneath. We say “white” because the wood changes colour over time, and it usually becomes a little darker. Sandblasting it will restore its original colour and therefore “pale” it, in other words. It is a process that is mostly done by professionals. It can also be done at home with a few tools and the proper abrasives.
2. Why do we need to White Sand?
There are several reasons why you may need to remove the finish from a wood surface. If it’s scratched or chipping in places, you’ll probably need to remove it. To change your present finish for another, it is also very likely that you will have to white sand. If you want to change the colour of your hardwood floor to a lighter more current stain, you will need to go through this step as well. Finally, and for whichever reason, you’ll have heavy duty sanding to do.
3. Why is it important to properly White Sand a Floor?
The action of sanding wood is quite simple whether it is with a machine or by hand. Probably since it is so simple and dusty, this step is very often done quickly and sloppily. What is important to know is that if the white sanding of your surface is not done correctly, the application of a finishing product will be difficult and imperfect. In the worst case, it is even possible that your finishing product will not adhere or impregnate well to your wood. If so, you may have to start over and redo the sanding step.
We want to save you that hassle, so here are the steps to properly white sand your wood surface.
4. What are the Steps to Properly White Sand a Floor?
STRIPPING (IF REQUIRED)
If you have had water damage or your wood has been exposed to moisture, stains and mould may have set in. Unfortunately, sandblasting may not always remove mould or stains completely. It is then necessary to use a product that will dislodge them before the sanding stage to avoid spreading this dirt on the healthy wood.
It’s the same as if you would want to remove a dye. Since it colours deep into the wood, it is better to use a product that will remove it, rather than sanding the wood until the colour disappears. This is an additional step, but it will cost less sandpaper and will require less energy in the end.
First of all, it is important to thoroughly clean and degrease the surface before sanding. Even if you have to buy an additional product to do this, the dirt that has accumulated on your surface will “clog” your paper and you will therefore have to change it more often. Also, if you sand without cleaning with a good degreaser, you will contaminate your wood. Sanding creates micro-incisions on the surface, which can result in deeper penetration of the greasy particles. These residues can cause your finishing product to not adhere well or to penetrate the wood improperly.
A bit of theory to start: Do you know where the nomenclature for sandpaper numbers comes from? They are determined by the number of grains per square inch. The smaller the number on a sandpaper, the coarser the grain will be. The higher the number, the softer the grain will be. Sandpaper can be used for both sanding and polishing a surface. It all depends on the grain size used.
You won’t be able to do the job effectively with just one size of sandpaper. You will need several different grains depending on the steps.
Best-case scenario, you have cleaned your surface, and now you need to white sand. To do this, you will ideally start with a 36 to 60 grit. Be sure to completely remove the old finish. When the wood sanding is complete, you can fill the holes and imperfections with an appropriate putty.
Afterwards, you must go a second time with an 80-grit to even out the surface and erase the sanding scratches. To finish, you will pass one last time with 100 to 120-grit paper, according to the manufacturer’s instructions for the finishing product you have chosen to apply. Even if the wood is new and leaves the factory, it is strongly recommended to sand it with a grain of 100 or 120 to even out the surface and therefore ensure good adhesion of the product.
When wood is planed, it is often "glazed" by the metal knives on the planer. In addition, the knives spread the wood's resin onto the surface, creating a glaze that prevents impregnation or adhesion.
FOR AN OUTDOOR SURFACE:
The wood used outdoors, known as “treated”, is already protected against mould. If it is new, it would be better to wait a year before covering it with a finishing product to allow time for the wood and the treatment product to dry properly. If it is already a coated wood, you will need to do the stripping and cleaning steps before sanding. To remove the old finish, you will need to start with a 36 to 60-grit paper. Thereafter, you will need to use the grit size that is recommended by the manufacturer of the finishing product that you will apply to your surface.
All stages of product application are important, but we wanted you to realize that proper preparation remains the key to a successful project. If you intend to sell your property in a few years, it is good to think about updating the décor and this includes refinishing your hardwood floors. This will increase the value of your home without costing a fortune. At any time, you can call on the professionals, but by having read this article, you can be sure that the preparation work has been done well.
The wood floor is timeless! With its ability to adapt to all styles and with the warmth it brings to a room, no wonder it is still popular. The trend? An oil finish that enhances the grain of the wood and provides a natural rustic look. Does your soft, hard or exotic wood floor need to be refreshed? If oiling a floor intimidates you, see how EASY-SOLO by LIGNA® changes the game with its single-coat technical innovation!
Sand the wood floor with an orbital sander fitted with a 100-grit abrasive disc (here, we are working on a factory-pre-sanded 100-grit wood floor), then dust the floor thoroughly with a vacuum cleaner. For large-area projects and to prevent the oil from drying before it can be wiped off, divide the floor into several sections using masking tape applied lengthwise near the junction of the boards. Work one section at a time.
Step 2: Oil the Floor
Using a microfiber applicator placed on a telescopic handle, apply an even layer of oil to one of the areas marked out with the masking tape. Spread the oil well along the length of the planks. Once the first part is finished, remove the masking tape, then work another part, taking care not to go over the already oiled part. If necessary, affix a tape to the limit of the treated part to avoid creating an extra thickness and a darker joint.
Step 3: Remove Excess Oil
After having oiled a section, wait 5 to 10 minutes, then rub the surface in the direction of the grain of the wood with a clean cotton cloth placed at the end of a telescopic handle. Take care to wipe off the oil residue to prevent the floor from remaining sticky. Once finished, allow the floor to dry completely for 24 hours with careful foot traffic, and wait five to seven days before normal use. Clean tools with LIGNA® ISO-THINNER. Ten days after applying the oil, start the LIGNA® oiled wood maintenance cycle.
Why Choose Oil as a Finish?
Its ease of application and speed of drying top the list of its advantages, in addition to the fact that it protects, colours and seals the wood in a single application. A single coat of EASY-SOLO oil, composed of resin and natural oils, is as resistant as three coats of traditional oil or varnish. Its durability is another important factor: An oiled floor does not chip and is highly resistant to abrasion. While nourishing the grain of the wood, the oil also protects it against wear, humidity, and stains.
Oil has no equal in its ability to enhance wood while emphasizing its raw appearance and authentic character. However, if this product is particularly interesting to protect furniture, floors or woodwork, all finishing oils available on the market are not equal in terms of quality. See the advantages of choosing a LIGNA® brand product for your interior and exterior projects.
Wood is a living material that requires a minimum of maintenance to preserve its beautiful appearance. Compared to other covering protection products, the oil enhances the grain and shine of the wood by penetrating it deeply and nourishing it.
Among the characteristics of the LIGNA® range of finishing oils, it is its ease of application that attracts attention: for professionals as well as for individuals, this step is accessible to all. Maintenance is just as simple. The refresh rate depends on the surface to be oiled as well as the use made of it.
When compared to traditional oils, which require the application of two coats, LIGNA® oils reveal equivalent resistance, but only require one coat (except in certain contexts). Having at heart the health of the planet and the people who live on it, the brand manufactures ecological oils based on resins and renewable vegetable oils containing little or no solvent.
The LIGNA® range includes oils for different uses, including BIO-SUPRA oil, which is used for kitchen surfaces. This oil can safely be applied to surfaces that come into contact with food.
For an exterior project, we will rather choose EXTERIA or HYBRI-DECK oils, which have increased resistance to UV rays and weathering.
Oil or Varnish: What is the difference?
Your choice between these two finishing products depends on the use you plan to make of your wooden surfaces. You should know that the varnish covers the wood to protect it. There must be three coats of varnish as well as sanding between the coats. It resists stains well, but is more vulnerable to scratches.
In case of damage, it is necessary to sand the damaged surface, then reapply a coat of the varnish. The oil, rather than being superimposed on the material, penetrates the wood, which acts like a sponge. It colours, seals, and protects it, and in most cases, only one coat is required. In addition, the oil offers the possibility of repairing the surface if it is damaged: a small local touch-up, and you’re done!
We have a really fun DIY for you today! You’ve seen these stools at the thrift store, by the dumpster, and on the curb. Don’t ignore another one! You can easily transform it from an inexpensive, outdated vinyl seat, to a chic entryway stool using some Fusion Mineral Paint. Today we are sharing a DIY Stripe Stool!
You ready? Let’s do this! This is such a simple DIY, you can do this in under an hour on a Saturday morning!
As with all projects, start by cleaning and drying the piece before you start painting. We recommend a quick clean with almost all pieces to remove dust and minimal dirt. You can learn about more heavy duty prep here.
Using a thick brush and Fusion’s Heirloom blue, cover the entire seat in paint. It may take 2 coats, but the coverage is so good that you wouldn’t even know it needed a second coat.
OPTIONAL: While the seat is drying, paint the frame. We used Stork from the Tones for Tots collection because it was a complimentary colour to the rest of the look we were going for.
Once the seat is dry, using a tape measure, divide the seat into three equal parts.
Tape off the three parts with two strips of painters tape down the middle. Then paint that middle portion using Little Stork.
Once the Little Stork is dry, tape off a middle stripe down the center and paint it black using Coal Black.
After that portion is dry, tape off two stripes on either side of the Coal Black stripe and use Mustard to add a final contrasting band.
Let everything dry and then remove the last pieces of tape. Do any necessary touch-ups. Not all painters’ tapes are created equal so make sure to use a quality brand to achieve crisp lines. Then enjoy your new fun home decor piece! You can seal it with Fusion’s Tough Coat, but that’s entirely up to you. Read our blog post about “When to use a Top Coat” to help you decide.
We’ve seen this trend everywhere! And the best part: it’s even easier now than ever to create at home DIY style! Would you like to get creative and make your own pour art? Fusion’s™ Pouring Resin and Cell Enhancer are both non toxic and simple to use, making this an easy how to. Follow this tutorial to get a similar look.
Fusion Mineral Paint: Mustard, Coal Black, Casement, Fort York Red, Park Bench
To begin, prep your area. Creating pour art can be messy, so make sure to cover your area with a plastic sheet. We’ve raised our canvas using plastic cups. In addition, we recommend wearing latex gloves.
PREPARE YOUR COLORS
For each color, pour a cup of Pouring Resin and add just a couple of drops of Cell Enhancer. Cell Enhancer is an option, it adds a really interesting separating effect, however you can experiment without it.
As a rule, the more Pouring Resin you use in the mixture, the more viscous it will be (do not use more than 10% ratio of paint to your Pouring Resin). You want your mixture to flow easily on your canvas, the more paint you add, the less flow you will get. You only need to add a couple of drops to your Pouring Resin to tint it and get a colored effect.
COMBINE EACH COLOR
Layer each color into a large measuring cup being very careful not to mix the colours together. Just pour in one after the next. Do not stir.
When all the colors have been poured into the large measuring cup, pour it all out through a sieve while moving it around canvas.
Afterwards, tilt the canvas to pour out excess paint. You will see shapes forming from the paint due to the Cell Enhancer.
In this case, a cake frosting tool was used to drag from the centre to the edge, forming a starfish pattern.
Continue to pour and tilt until you acquire a desired look. For example, you can always add more of a particular color if you feel it better suits your piece. Be sure to wash your sieve and measuring cup directly after each use, don’t worry clean up is easy with just soap and water!
Allow your piece to dry for 24 hours and then it will be ready to display in your space!
That’s it! You’re all done! Once dry, it will have a glossy finish to it that is very durable, much like an epoxy type resin. All you need to do is find a gorgeous place to hang it, and you’ve got a great conversation piece!
We’d love to see what you create. Feel free to join and share your projects at our community Facebook group Paint It Beautiful!
You asked and we are delivering – YOUR top questions about Fusion Mineral Paint. Every day our inbox, direct messages and posts on Paint It Beautiful are filled with tons and tons of questions for us Fusion experts – from very simple questions (HELLO where can I BUY THIS FABULOUS PAINT?!?! to complex, advanced technique questions. We decided it was about time that we compiled the top 25 questions we get asked and provide you with answers straight from the experts! Think you know everything you can about Fusion Mineral Paint? Think again, read on, there is something for everyone!
1) What is tannin bleed and how do you avoid it?
Tannin bleed or bleed through, are the tannins and resins of the wood trying to escape. While tannin stains can occur with almost any species of wood, some types of wood such as cedar and mahogany, are known as staining wood and are more prone to tannin bleed.
You will notice, especially if you paint with lighter colours, almost a shadow, stain or coloring, peeking through your paint as it starts to cure. It then “bleeds” through the paint. This can appear in the shape of a knot from the wood, or an overall hue color change.
So how do we prevent tannin bleed? Applying a stain blocking primer is crucial to preventing bleed through when painting. You may want to use B-I-N Zinsser Shellac-Based Primer so that the shellac will hold in the resins and not allow for bleeding to occur. You can read more information in our post about “How to prevent bleed through.”
2) What are some of the different methods for distressing?
There are countless ways of distressing wood and making it look old, so we want to share two of our favourites, specifically tailored distressing Fusion Mineral Paint.
A) Using Beeswax – Simply take the beeswax block, (try warming it in your hand for a moment first) and scuff it over any area you want the Fusion Mineral Paint to ‘resist’. In other words, the areas that you do not want the paint to stick to the surface as Fusion is known for its incredibly durable surface after it is cured. This is why distressing before Fusion cures will make the process easier. After you have used your beeswax, go ahead and paint. Once your paint is dry, you can use sandpaper or a wet rag to pull the paint away from the ‘resisted’ surface. My Painted Door has a very thorough post about how to do so.
B) Wet Distressing – Wet distressing is a technique where you remove paint through by using a wet cloth sponge before the paint has had a chance to cure.
For example, a sanding sponge that is damp or a cloth that is damp. It creates less mess and you can control parts you want to distress more easily. We have a great tutorial on how to wet distress.
This often shows a beautiful natural looking distressing. as opposed to taking sandpaper to a painted surface that is cured where you have less control and you may go beyond the substrate very quickly without knowing it. If you are using coarse sandpaper it can’t leave scratches so that’s why we prefer wet just stressing because it has a more natural wear appearance.
3) Do I need to sand or prep my wood piece?
That depends on what is on the wood that you want to paint. Clean raw wood only needs to be sure that the last sanding was in the direction of the grain (sandpaper grit no lower than 120). If it is dust free then you can go ahead and paint (if it is a surface that you are not worried about bleeding through). Fusion is self priming on raw wood, meaning it will adhere to and fill in pores to make a uniform surface ready for a covering a second coat of paint. After it has dried you give a very light sanding ( 220 grit or higher) since the wood grain ends can be slightly raised and now have a roughness. When smooth, remove any dust with then you go ahead to put your second and final coat on.
For lacquer or old shiny paint you must degrease or clean with Fusion TSP to ensure all grease and oils have been removed. If it is super shiny we also encourage you to de gloss the surface by a light scuff sand with a fine grit. Do not sand anything you think may contain lead.
Most wood as long as it is clean, doesn’t need anything further. When in doubt, refer to our Prep Guide here.
4) How do I paint a non-porous surface?
A non-porous is anything that has been previously painted or coated. In which case, follow the same instructions as question # 3 and refer to our Prep Guide.
5) Can I paint kitchen counters?
While you probably could paint a countertop and some of our Paint it Beautiful Group members have, it is not something that we recommend because the countertop surface will come into contact with food, knives, etc. Fusion is mostly a furniture paint, created and tested for that use alone. Anything outside of its intended purpose is not something that we can promote or educate on.
Most likely not. Typically Ultra Grip is used for Melamine cabinets and very high gloss detailed woodwork that you can’t easily sand to dull the sheen. For wood cabinets, \a good cleaning with TSP and a light sanding and you’re all set to go! Read more here on How to Prep Like a Pro and Painting Kitchen Cabinets.
7) Can I paint over wipe-on polyurethane?
These surfaces need to be cleaned and scuff sanded prior to painting.
8) Can I paint over wax?
No. Wax is always the last thing you apply to your furniture (unless you are distressing your piece, in which case refer to Question # 2). If you waxed something and you want to change the look, you must remove it with a mineral spirit before you paint.
10) Do I have to seal?
Fusion Mineral Paint does not need a sealer as it comes with a built in Top Coat. You can however use our Tough Coat if the circumstances warrant it. To read about when to use and when not to use Tough Coat, visit our blog post about it to help you decide.
If you decide to accent your piece with a Glaze finish on a high-traffic water area like kitchen table tops or kitchen cabinets, it is often recommended for top durability to seal it with Tough Coat. The legs of a table, or a dresser wouldn’t be necessary.
TSP (Trisodium Phosphate ) is a cleaner to help remove dirt, grime and grease so that your painting surface is as clean as can be. Paint doesn’t like to stick to “loose particles” like dust, or grease. TSP removes them all, which will improve the adhesion of your paint and the look of subsequent coatings. Our TSP is biodegradable and organic. Read more about TSP here.
Using a sponge or a damp rag is the easiest way to apply Tough Coat. A large car detailing sponge tends to be the best way to apply it, from end to end. We have a great video where Jennylyn shows the application process.
13) How do I test if a previously painted piece was waxed?
Do a scratch test using your nails. If anything comes up under your fingernail, then there is most likely grease or wax and it needs to be thoroughly removed before painting.
14) When to use Ultra Grip?
Almost never! The only exceptions to using Ultra Grip are the ThermaFoil kitchen cabinetry or lacquers that have very detailed mouldings and you do not want to scuff sand in all these little detailed or carved areas.
15) Can you use Fusion indoors?
Fusion Mineral Paint is safe to use as a year-round paint, even indoors in the winter.
16) Chalky style paint and Fusion Mineral Paint? What’s the difference?
Most of the chalk style paints on the market are a thicker consistency, leave a powdery soft matte finish and require a protective top coat such as wax.
Fusion is formulated with a built-in primer and topcoat and for most projects Fusion Mineral Paint is all that is required when repainting a clean and sound surface.
Fusion is formulated with a built-in top coat, the 100% acrylic resin. You do not need to use a top coat for water permanency. Lost and Found Decor has a very thorough post about the differences between the products.
17) Can you paint fabric with Fusion mineral paint?
You absolutely can paint fabric with Fusion BUT not all fabrics are created equally and some lend themselves to being painted more easily than others. Read all about it in our Painting Fabric blog post.
18) What’s the best brush to use with Fusion Mineral Paint?
One of the secrets to achieving the perfect paint finish is the tools you use and we strongly recommend STAALMEESTER brushes. We also have a helpful blog post on how to choose the right brush for your project.
19) How much coverage do you get with a container of Fusion Mineral Paint?
We have a handy guide and chart that shows you just how much coverage you can get with specific product examples. Generally speaking one 500ml, 16.9 fl oz container will cover 75 square feet. Remember, that includes a built-in top coat.
20) Where can I find examples of projects painted in a specific Fusion Mineral Paint colour?
You can find all of the colours that Fusion carries right here along with descriptions of each colour and photos of projects. Just click on each individual colour swatch to see the photos. We also recommend you follow our Pinterest account. There we have a curated board where we are constantly adding new projects under each individual Fusion paint colour.
21) Where can I buy Fusion Mineral Paint?
You can find your closest Fusion retailer under our Where To Buy section.
22) I am a business owner and I want to sell Fusion in my store. How can I do so?
You can apply to become a Fusion Retailer right here. We have a high volume of requests sent to us daily, but we promise we will be in touch as soon as we possibly can.
23) I have a very specific project that I want to paint with Fusion, but I feel I need more help. Who can I ask?
We have a great Facebook group called Paint it Beautiful. There you will find both expert and amateur painters, as well as Fusion Merchants who are able to help answer just about any question or concern you have with your particular project. Everyone is very helpful and supportive and there is no such thing as a dumb question. So come join us there and ask away! You will find lots of inspiration and discover new painting techniques to help you create the look you want for your home.
24) Where else can I connect with other Fusion fans and community members?
We are across social media on all the major platforms. You can follow us on the following:
Looking for a way to create texture and depth in your piece? Well, we have just the product for that! Introducing our NEW Crackled Texture. This base product creates cracks and crevasses on which you can add paint over top. It is best applied on a flat horizontal surface, as the product is self-levelling. The thicker the application – the more defined the cracks will appear. It’s a great way to add character to your piece with an aged and weathered look.
1. Prep your surface as you would to paint with Fusion. Use TSP Alternative to clean, then give your piece a light sanding and remove excess dust using a lint-free rag.
2. Pour a generous amount of the Crackled Texture medium over your surface. Spread with a putty knife or chip brush. (Note: The thicker the layer, the larger your crackling will be. Thinner layers will result in small cracks).
3. Allow to dry for 6-12 hours. (Feel free to get creative and re-apply the Crackled Texture. As a result, added layers will give your piece even more depth and texture)
4. Paint over the dried Crackled Texture with the colour of your choice. We used the colour Brook and applied it with a Staalmeester Brush.
5. To add some nuances, you can add coloured wax. In this piece, we used Fusion’s Liming Wax.
6. Then we distressed the painted door by scraping away some of the surface. This gives it an increased weathered look.
The piece is now ready to stage and style for your space!
What will you use Crackle on? Leave your project ideas in the comments below!
We recently added a new product to the very complete FUSIONTM line. We present you FUSIONTM Milk Paint. During the last few months, we received many demands about this paint and due to the enthusiasm of your requests, we decided to make this Canadian line available in Quebec for you.
The 25 colours are as modern as they are vibrant, you will love them!
WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF MILK PAINT?
Milk paint is easier to use than making your morning protein shake! Just add water and stir. It offers an incomparable style to your surface as well as a surprising ease of application. See below for all its other qualities which will surely charm you!
Provides a Durable Finish
Offers Superior Quality
Made in Canada
Versatile (offers endless styling possibilities)
Infinite Shelf Life (in powder form)
Dissolves Easily in Water
Chalky matte Finish
Dries and Hardens Completely in 30 minutes
Recoats in only 30 minutes
Needs to be protected by a proper finish
For Interior or Exterior Use
PREPARING YOUR SURFACE CAREFULLY BEFORE PAINTING
Rough or Unfinished Wood – Dust and Paint
FUSIONTM Mineral Paint – Dust, Clean with TSP and Paint
Melamine and Thermofoil – Clean with TSP, add Bonding Agent to your Mix and Paint
Glossy Surface – Clean with TSP, Remove the Shine with a fine Sandpaper and Paint
Previously Waxed Surface – Remove Wax with Solvent and paint
MILK PAINT FUSIONTM
Timeless Benefits, a Modern Formula!
They say good things take time, and that's what we've done with milk paint. We have taken the time to refine the formula of our regular milk paint. Even the good things need a little refreshing, and that's what we did with milk paint. Now it's even easier to mix, and it dissolves easily in water.