The wood floor is timeless! With its ability to adapt to all styles and with the warmth it brings to a room, no wonder it is still popular. The trend? An oil finish that enhances the grain of the wood and provides a natural rustic look. Does your soft, hard or exotic wood floor need to be refreshed? If oiling a floor intimidates you, see how EASY-SOLO by LIGNA® changes the game with its single-coat technical innovation!
Sand the wood floor with an orbital sander fitted with a 100-grit abrasive disc (here, we are working on a factory-pre-sanded 100-grit wood floor), then dust the floor thoroughly with a vacuum cleaner. For large-area projects and to prevent the oil from drying before it can be wiped off, divide the floor into several sections using masking tape applied lengthwise near the junction of the boards. Work one section at a time.
Step 2: Oil the Floor
Using a microfiber applicator placed on a telescopic handle, apply an even layer of oil to one of the areas marked out with the masking tape. Spread the oil well along the length of the planks. Once the first part is finished, remove the masking tape, then work another part, taking care not to go over the already oiled part. If necessary, affix a tape to the limit of the treated part to avoid creating an extra thickness and a darker joint.
Step 3: Remove Excess Oil
After having oiled a section, wait 5 to 10 minutes, then rub the surface in the direction of the grain of the wood with a clean cotton cloth placed at the end of a telescopic handle. Take care to wipe off the oil residue to prevent the floor from remaining sticky. Once finished, allow the floor to dry completely for 24 hours with careful foot traffic, and wait five to seven days before normal use. Clean tools with LIGNA® ISO-THINNER. Ten days after applying the oil, start the LIGNA® oiled wood maintenance cycle.
Why Choose Oil as a Finish?
Its ease of application and speed of drying top the list of its advantages, in addition to the fact that it protects, colours and seals the wood in a single application. A single coat of EASY-SOLO oil, composed of resin and natural oils, is as resistant as three coats of traditional oil or varnish. Its durability is another important factor: An oiled floor does not chip and is highly resistant to abrasion. While nourishing the grain of the wood, the oil also protects it against wear, humidity, and stains.
Oil has no equal in its ability to enhance wood while emphasizing its raw appearance and authentic character. However, if this product is particularly interesting to protect furniture, floors or woodwork, all finishing oils available on the market are not equal in terms of quality. See the advantages of choosing a LIGNA® brand product for your interior and exterior projects.
Photo: Adobe Stock.
Wood is a living material that requires a minimum of maintenance to preserve its beautiful appearance. Compared to other covering protection products, the oil enhances the grain and shine of the wood by penetrating it deeply and nourishing it.
Among the characteristics of the LIGNA® range of finishing oils, it is its ease of application that attracts attention: for professionals as well as for individuals, this step is accessible to all. Maintenance is just as simple. The refresh rate depends on the surface to be oiled as well as the use made of it.
When compared to traditional oils, which require the application of two coats, LIGNA® oils reveal equivalent resistance, but only require one coat (except in certain contexts). Having at heart the health of the planet and the people who live on it, the brand manufactures ecological oils based on resins and renewable vegetable oils containing little or no solvent.
The LIGNA® range includes oils for different uses, including BIO-SUPRA oil, which is used for kitchen surfaces. This oil can safely be applied to surfaces that come into contact with food.
For an exterior project, we will rather choose EXTERIA or HYBRI-DECK oils, which have increased resistance to UV rays and weathering.
Oil or Varnish: What is the difference?
Photo: Photographee.eu-Fotolia.com.
Your choice between these two finishing products depends on the use you plan to make of your wooden surfaces. You should know that the varnish covers the wood to protect it. There must be three coats of varnish as well as sanding between the coats. It resists stains well, but is more vulnerable to scratches.
In case of damage, it is necessary to sand the damaged surface, then reapply a coat of the varnish. The oil, rather than being superimposed on the material, penetrates the wood, which acts like a sponge. It colours, seals, and protects it, and in most cases, only one coat is required. In addition, the oil offers the possibility of repairing the surface if it is damaged: a small local touch-up, and you’re done!
We have a really fun DIY for you today! You’ve seen these stools at the thrift store, by the dumpster, and on the curb. Don’t ignore another one! You can easily transform it from an inexpensive, outdated vinyl seat, to a chic entryway stool using some Fusion Mineral Paint. Today we are sharing a DIY Stripe Stool!
You ready? Let’s do this! This is such a simple DIY, you can do this in under an hour on a Saturday morning!
As with all projects, start by cleaning and drying the piece before you start painting. We recommend a quick clean with almost all pieces to remove dust and minimal dirt. You can learn about more heavy duty prep here.
Step 2
Using a thick brush and Fusion’s Heirloom blue, cover the entire seat in paint. It may take 2 coats, but the coverage is so good that you wouldn’t even know it needed a second coat.
OPTIONAL: While the seat is drying, paint the frame. We used Stork from the Tones for Tots collection because it was a complimentary colour to the rest of the look we were going for.
Step 3
Once the seat is dry, using a tape measure, divide the seat into three equal parts.
Step 4
Tape off the three parts with two strips of painters tape down the middle. Then paint that middle portion using Little Stork.
Step 5
Once the Little Stork is dry, tape off a middle stripe down the center and paint it black using Coal Black.
Step 6
After that portion is dry, tape off two stripes on either side of the Coal Black stripe and use Mustard to add a final contrasting band.
Step 7
Let everything dry and then remove the last pieces of tape. Do any necessary touch-ups. Not all painters’ tapes are created equal so make sure to use a quality brand to achieve crisp lines. Then enjoy your new fun home decor piece! You can seal it with Fusion’s Tough Coat, but that’s entirely up to you. Read our blog post about “When to use a Top Coat” to help you decide.
As soon as the weather gets warmer, we all pull out our patio chairs into the backyard or out of the shed at the cottage. Often, outdoor furniture doesn’t “winter” well and starts to look weathered after a season or two. We are teaching you how to paint outdoor furniture with Fusion Mineral Paint today. The information shared in this blog post is going to help you to makeover your outdoor furniture set, give your chairs or table a new lease on life and save you a load of money!
Most exterior or outdoor furniture is made of plastic or wood. Plastic patio chairs are everywhere these days and easy on the bank account. What we often find with plastic outdoor patio chairs is that they fade in the sunlight over time and then when we go to set them out again after a long winter, they look horrible. Then sometimes you just take them out and wonder, “Why did I buy this colour chair again?”. Maybe you were into red two years ago but not this year.
Time for an outdoor furniture makeover courtesy of Fusion Mineral Paint. Although we are sharing how to paint a plastic outdoor chair with Fusion Mineral Paint, this tutorial is the same for outdoor wood furniture as well! Two for one guys!
The before! A basic red plastic Adirondack – or as well call them in Canada, a Muskoka chair! A cottage classic.
Whatever your reason for wanting to improve or change the look of your outdoor furniture, instead of buying brand exterior furniture, why not update it with Fusion Mineral Paint? It’s super easy to create a new look, and yes, you can absolutely paint plastic with Fusion Mineral Paint. We get that question A LOT in Paint It Beautiful. You can also paint metal, glass and other hard-to-paint surfaces. This tutorial gives you a quick and simple way to give your exterior furniture a fresh look in hours.
A plastic container for your TSP mix (instructions on the label)
Step 1 – Prep Your Outdoor Furniture – Clean
Clean your chairs or table OR BOTH! Get rid of the dust, dirt and any debris that is on it. In our case, the chair was really dirty as it had been left outside all winter. You can use our TSP to give it a good wash down and prep the surface for paint. Any painting project is only as good as your prep so making sure your surface is clean before painting is a must. Please follow the instructions on the TSP to use it correctly. Although it is not necessary to wash the chair with water after cleaning with your TSP solution, it doesn’t hurt to give it a quick rinse with just water after. Let it dry completely before moving to the next step.
Jennylyn gave this old chair a quick clean in the sunshine with a small amount of water with a little TSP mixed in.
Step 2 – Paint your outdoor furniture
Get ready to paint! Always paint in the direction of the grain of the chair or table (even with plastic) and remember the cardinal rule of painting with Fusion Mineral Paint – thin coats are better than thick coats. So apply one thin coat, let dry completely and go over a second time if needed. We suggest waiting at least a few hours before doing the second coat.
You will find that Fusion Mineral Paint goes on really easily as it is a self-levelling paint. As you can see from the photo below, that finish is so smooth! Look how amazing this chair is already looking!!! Totally transformed from faded red to a modern farmhouse.
Step 3 – let your outdoor furniture dry and prepare to apply a second coat if needed
Let dry and apply a second coat or touch-ups where needed. Depending on what colour you are going from, one coat may be all you need. This was one coat with some touch-ups in spots! Inglenook has amazing coverage. Coverage with different colours changes due to the pigments and makeup of each colour so it varies from colour to colour.
Step 4 – prepare to fall in love with your patio set, outdoor chairs or table all over again!
You’re done! And you have yourself a gorgeous new chair, in a custom colour of your choice!
One of the best things about Fusion Mineral Paint is that it is an excellent paint for outdoor furniture. It is waterproof and the color lasts a very long time due to the mineral pigments being used. We washed down the chair a couple of days later without any issues. And you do not need to use Ultra Grip prior to painting. Fusion Mineral Paint will work just great for this project on its own! We do recommend not leaving your Fusion painted outdoor furniture outside in harsh conditions to prolong the lifespan of the item. So if you can, store indoors during the winter or at least have the items covered.
We filmed a great Live Facebook Video about how to paint outdoor furniture
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Typically when people use Fusion Mineral Paint, they just think about how to use it with interior pieces since it is furniture paint after all BUT Fusion Mineral Paint is actually a fabulous, low VOC paint for painting your front door! Our paint is perfect for exterior doors and an easy way to update, spruce up or completely transform the exterior of your home! Today we are teaching you how to paint your front door with Fusion Mineral Paint.
Our front door before
We were going from red to blue as we wanted a fresh new look to match the house shutters. Plus the previous paint was not aging very well so it was high time to change things up.
For this project, we went with Fusion’s Liberty Blue. This highly saturated, intense royal blue has been one of our original blues for over 20 years.
STEP 1 – PREP YOUR FRONT DOOR
A good cleaning is usually all you need to prepare your door for painting. Does not matter if it’s wood, steel or metal, you can clean them all with our TSP. This will help get rid of dirt, grime, oil and any sticky fingerprints left over from last summers little hands covered in melting popsicles, pushing it open. By using TSP, you are making sure that the surface is ready to be painted and that Fusion will adhere properly!
Fusion’s TSP is a concentrated formula and phosphate free so it’s very eco-friendly. All you do is use two full caps and mix them into 2 litres of water and clean. I Restore Stuff has a great video tutorial showing how to use it. And yes you can use this on a previously painted door.
PREP TIP: The one caveat we always mention is that make sure that your door is not covered in wax. Do the wax scratch test to ensure that it is free of wax. Drag your fingernail over the door and see if any wax comes off. If it does have wax on it, you must use Mineral Spirits to clean it, you cannot paint over wax.
Also if your front door is a wood, metal or steel door with peeling paint, a light sanding will help to remove any bumps or scuffs to ensure you have a smooth surface to paint on. Then lightly wipe to remove any dust or sanding residue. Again, you want to make sure there isn’t any residual dirt or sanded off materials that will get stuck in your fresh paint!
STEP 2 – REMOVING HARDWARE/USING PAINTER’S TAPE ON YOUR DOOR
Now, you don’t “have to” remove your door handles and locks in order to paint your doors. You can use painter’s tape to tape around them. Removing hardware is a great way to avoid brush marks around the handles. However, oftentimes door hardware can be tricky to install again so unless you know what you’re doing, this is an easy fix.
However, if you’re planning on changing the hardware and locks, they won’t always fit in the exact measurements as the previous ones. The last thing you want is a trace of the previous color peeking out under a door handle. So in that case, obviously removing the hardware is a must.
Also make sure you do use painter’s tape around any glass areas that you cannot remove (especially in windows with grids). If you forget (we’ve been there, it happens) use a clean cloth with TSP to remove the paint from any surfaces. you don’t want it adhering to BEFORE the paint dries and especially before it cures, as you can use Fusion to paint glass and other mirrored surfaces.
STEP 3 – PAINT YOUR DOOR
You can choose the tools that you feel comfortable using. Some people prefer a microfibre roller, while other are more comfortable using a brush. If you are worried about brush strokes, the key to not getting brush strokes is to paint in thinner, not thicker coats. Remember, less is more! We have a great post that covers the basic on how to paint to avoid brush strokes.
Because each door is different, a good rule of thumb is to paint the edges and any crevices on the door first. Then do a coat of paint with a roller on the flat surfaces.
As the paint dries, you may notice some sections that are darker than others. This sometimes happens when using roller brushes as we don’t get an equal amount of paint all around the roller after we place it in the paint tray. Then, as we roll down a surface, some parts will appear thicker than others in your first coat or two (depending on what colour you’re using). It can even happen with a regular brush. As you become more experienced with painting, you will get a better feel for how to paint surfaces as to avoid this.
Resist the temptation of going over the areas around those spots with more paint during this time. This will cause an uneven surface. The rule of thumb with Fusion is to always use thin coats. Let it fully dry, and then do another coat. You can always touch up after. Remember, less is more!
The good news is that Fusion is a self leveling paint. Meaning even if you do find you made a mistake, the paint will do it’s best to ensure that it dries as evenly as possible.
Again, let your door dry properly between coats as per instructions on the container.
PAINT TIP: Please do note that weather can affect dry times. Try to avoid painting on extremely humid days or days with extreme temperature changes. Or even very windy days to avoid paint splatter!
The end result? A gorgeous new look for our front door!
ADDITIONAL TIPS & QUESTIONS
ABOUT PAINTING YOUR FRONT DOOR WITH FUSION MINERAL PAINT
Do I need to use Ultra Grip prior to painting my front door?
This depends on your starting surface. Ultra Grip adheres to hard to paint surfaces, in particular, melamine and thermafoil cabinetry. To decide whether or not Ultra Grip is right for your project, watch our video about Ultra Grip. Usually, with wood or metal, you do not need anything else but Fusion Mineral Paint. The only exception to that is using a shellac based primer to avoid bleed-through. (you can read all about that here!)
Do I need to seal my front door with a top coat?
Fusion Mineral Paint comes with a built-in top coat, the 100% acrylic resin. So you do not need to add any additional top coat for water permanency.
What about Fusion Tough Coat? Should I use that because my door is an exterior door?
Fusion Tough Coat is non-yellowing, clear top coat that we created for additional protection in high traffic areas. We want to emphasize that *most* cases, you do NOT need to use this. It was made because we know some of our customers just want that extra reassurance when painting high-traffic areas. We also wrote a very thorough post about how, when and if you need to use it.
Some people who have painted their exterior doors, have done Tough Coat, top coat trick – a 3 layer technique approach with their Tough Coat and Fusion paint. This is where you paint one coat of Fusion paint, then a layer of Fusion’s Tough Coat, then a second coat of Fusion paint. This may be good in situations where your door faces a direction where a lot of natural elements get at it on a regular basis (think high winter winds blowing dirt and small rocks, beating rain with hail and so forth). So this is really a personal choice for you to decide whether or not to use on your door that only you can answer. In most cases, all you really need is Fusion Mineral Paint.
Also, please note that Tough Coat can be more visible on dark colors in particular. Should you decide to use it and streaking occur, you can simply apply the paint over top and leave it as is. A nice thin coat of our Natural color in the Stain and Finishing oil can be a lot more forgiving on darker colors.
My front door is in direct sunlight. Will my color fade?
We manufacture our paint with the highest quality, finely ground, natural mineral pigment and that means you will not get a better depth of color or coverage from any other paint. Because we use real mineral pigments, our paint is also naturally UV resistant and your color will not fade over time!
We hope this helps you to go give your door a fresh new look. Fusion Mineral Paint has hundreds of gorgeous colours to choose from to help you paint it beautiful!
We’ve seen this trend everywhere! And the best part: it’s even easier now than ever to create at home DIY style! Would you like to get creative and make your own pour art? Fusion’s™ Pouring Resin and Cell Enhancer are both non toxic and simple to use, making this an easy how to. Follow this tutorial to get a similar look.
SUPPLIES:
Fusion Mineral Paint: Mustard, Coal Black, Casement, Fort York Red, Park Bench
To begin, prep your area. Creating pour art can be messy, so make sure to cover your area with a plastic sheet. We’ve raised our canvas using plastic cups. In addition, we recommend wearing latex gloves.
STEP 2
PREPARE YOUR COLORS
For each color, pour a cup of Pouring Resin and add just a couple of drops of Cell Enhancer. Cell Enhancer is an option, it adds a really interesting separating effect, however you can experiment without it.
As a rule, the more Pouring Resin you use in the mixture, the more viscous it will be (do not use more than 10% ratio of paint to your Pouring Resin). You want your mixture to flow easily on your canvas, the more paint you add, the less flow you will get. You only need to add a couple of drops to your Pouring Resin to tint it and get a colored effect.
STEP 3
COMBINE EACH COLOR
Layer each color into a large measuring cup being very careful not to mix the colours together. Just pour in one after the next. Do not stir.
STEP 4
POURING
When all the colors have been poured into the large measuring cup, pour it all out through a sieve while moving it around canvas.
STEP 5
BLENDING
Afterwards, tilt the canvas to pour out excess paint. You will see shapes forming from the paint due to the Cell Enhancer.
In this case, a cake frosting tool was used to drag from the centre to the edge, forming a starfish pattern.
Continue to pour and tilt until you acquire a desired look. For example, you can always add more of a particular color if you feel it better suits your piece. Be sure to wash your sieve and measuring cup directly after each use, don’t worry clean up is easy with just soap and water!
Allow your piece to dry for 24 hours and then it will be ready to display in your space!
That’s it! You’re all done! Once dry, it will have a glossy finish to it that is very durable, much like an epoxy type resin. All you need to do is find a gorgeous place to hang it, and you’ve got a great conversation piece!
We’d love to see what you create. Feel free to join and share your projects at our community Facebook group Paint It Beautiful!
You asked and we are delivering – YOUR top questions about Fusion Mineral Paint. Every day our inbox, direct messages and posts on Paint It Beautiful are filled with tons and tons of questions for us Fusion experts – from very simple questions (HELLO where can I BUY THIS FABULOUS PAINT?!?! to complex, advanced technique questions. We decided it was about time that we compiled the top 25 questions we get asked and provide you with answers straight from the experts! Think you know everything you can about Fusion Mineral Paint? Think again, read on, there is something for everyone!
1) What is tannin bleed and how do you avoid it?
Tannin bleed or bleed through, are the tannins and resins of the wood trying to escape. While tannin stains can occur with almost any species of wood, some types of wood such as cedar and mahogany, are known as staining wood and are more prone to tannin bleed.
You will notice, especially if you paint with lighter colours, almost a shadow, stain or coloring, peeking through your paint as it starts to cure. It then “bleeds” through the paint. This can appear in the shape of a knot from the wood, or an overall hue color change.
So how do we prevent tannin bleed? Applying a stain blocking primer is crucial to preventing bleed through when painting. You may want to use B-I-N Zinsser Shellac-Based Primer so that the shellac will hold in the resins and not allow for bleeding to occur. You can read more information in our post about “How to prevent bleed through.”
2) What are some of the different methods for distressing?
There are countless ways of distressing wood and making it look old, so we want to share two of our favourites, specifically tailored distressing Fusion Mineral Paint.
A) Using Beeswax – Simply take the beeswax block, (try warming it in your hand for a moment first) and scuff it over any area you want the Fusion Mineral Paint to ‘resist’. In other words, the areas that you do not want the paint to stick to the surface as Fusion is known for its incredibly durable surface after it is cured. This is why distressing before Fusion cures will make the process easier. After you have used your beeswax, go ahead and paint. Once your paint is dry, you can use sandpaper or a wet rag to pull the paint away from the ‘resisted’ surface. My Painted Door has a very thorough post about how to do so.
B) Wet Distressing – Wet distressing is a technique where you remove paint through by using a wet cloth sponge before the paint has had a chance to cure.
For example, a sanding sponge that is damp or a cloth that is damp. It creates less mess and you can control parts you want to distress more easily. We have a great tutorial on how to wet distress.
This often shows a beautiful natural looking distressing. as opposed to taking sandpaper to a painted surface that is cured where you have less control and you may go beyond the substrate very quickly without knowing it. If you are using coarse sandpaper it can’t leave scratches so that’s why we prefer wet just stressing because it has a more natural wear appearance.
3) Do I need to sand or prep my wood piece?
That depends on what is on the wood that you want to paint. Clean raw wood only needs to be sure that the last sanding was in the direction of the grain (sandpaper grit no lower than 120). If it is dust free then you can go ahead and paint (if it is a surface that you are not worried about bleeding through). Fusion is self priming on raw wood, meaning it will adhere to and fill in pores to make a uniform surface ready for a covering a second coat of paint. After it has dried you give a very light sanding ( 220 grit or higher) since the wood grain ends can be slightly raised and now have a roughness. When smooth, remove any dust with then you go ahead to put your second and final coat on.
For lacquer or old shiny paint you must degrease or clean with Fusion TSP to ensure all grease and oils have been removed. If it is super shiny we also encourage you to de gloss the surface by a light scuff sand with a fine grit. Do not sand anything you think may contain lead.
If you’re piece has wax on it you must remove with mineral spirits.
Most wood as long as it is clean, doesn’t need anything further. When in doubt, refer to our Prep Guide here.
4) How do I paint a non-porous surface?
A non-porous is anything that has been previously painted or coated. In which case, follow the same instructions as question # 3 and refer to our Prep Guide.
5) Can I paint kitchen counters?
While you probably could paint a countertop and some of our Paint it Beautiful Group members have, it is not something that we recommend because the countertop surface will come into contact with food, knives, etc. Fusion is mostly a furniture paint, created and tested for that use alone. Anything outside of its intended purpose is not something that we can promote or educate on.
Most likely not. Typically Ultra Grip is used for Melamine cabinets and very high gloss detailed woodwork that you can’t easily sand to dull the sheen. For wood cabinets, \a good cleaning with TSP and a light sanding and you’re all set to go! Read more here on How to Prep Like a Pro and Painting Kitchen Cabinets.
7) Can I paint over wipe-on polyurethane?
These surfaces need to be cleaned and scuff sanded prior to painting.
8) Can I paint over wax?
No. Wax is always the last thing you apply to your furniture (unless you are distressing your piece, in which case refer to Question # 2). If you waxed something and you want to change the look, you must remove it with a mineral spirit before you paint.
9)
10) Do I have to seal?
Fusion Mineral Paint does not need a sealer as it comes with a built in Top Coat. You can however use our Tough Coat if the circumstances warrant it. To read about when to use and when not to use Tough Coat, visit our blog post about it to help you decide.
If you decide to accent your piece with a Glaze finish on a high-traffic water area like kitchen table tops or kitchen cabinets, it is often recommended for top durability to seal it with Tough Coat. The legs of a table, or a dresser wouldn’t be necessary.
TSP (Trisodium Phosphate ) is a cleaner to help remove dirt, grime and grease so that your painting surface is as clean as can be. Paint doesn’t like to stick to “loose particles” like dust, or grease. TSP removes them all, which will improve the adhesion of your paint and the look of subsequent coatings. Our TSP is biodegradable and organic. Read more about TSP here.
Using a sponge or a damp rag is the easiest way to apply Tough Coat. A large car detailing sponge tends to be the best way to apply it, from end to end. We have a great video where Jennylyn shows the application process.
13) How do I test if a previously painted piece was waxed?
Do a scratch test using your nails. If anything comes up under your fingernail, then there is most likely grease or wax and it needs to be thoroughly removed before painting.
14) When to use Ultra Grip?
Almost never! The only exceptions to using Ultra Grip are the ThermaFoil kitchen cabinetry or lacquers that have very detailed mouldings and you do not want to scuff sand in all these little detailed or carved areas.
15) Can you use Fusion indoors?
Fusion Mineral Paint is safe to use as a year-round paint, even indoors in the winter.
16) Chalky style paint and Fusion Mineral Paint? What’s the difference?
Most of the chalk style paints on the market are a thicker consistency, leave a powdery soft matte finish and require a protective top coat such as wax.
Fusion is formulated with a built-in primer and topcoat and for most projects Fusion Mineral Paint is all that is required when repainting a clean and sound surface.
Fusion is formulated with a built-in top coat, the 100% acrylic resin. You do not need to use a top coat for water permanency. Lost and Found Decor has a very thorough post about the differences between the products.
17) Can you paint fabric with Fusion mineral paint?
You absolutely can paint fabric with Fusion BUT not all fabrics are created equally and some lend themselves to being painted more easily than others. Read all about it in our Painting Fabric blog post.
18) What’s the best brush to use with Fusion Mineral Paint?
One of the secrets to achieving the perfect paint finish is the tools you use and we strongly recommend STAALMEESTER brushes. We also have a helpful blog post on how to choose the right brush for your project.
19) How much coverage do you get with a container of Fusion Mineral Paint?
We have a handy guide and chart that shows you just how much coverage you can get with specific product examples. Generally speaking one 500ml, 16.9 fl oz container will cover 75 square feet. Remember, that includes a built-in top coat.
20) Where can I find examples of projects painted in a specific Fusion Mineral Paint colour?
You can find all of the colours that Fusion carries right here along with descriptions of each colour and photos of projects. Just click on each individual colour swatch to see the photos. We also recommend you follow our Pinterest account. There we have a curated board where we are constantly adding new projects under each individual Fusion paint colour.
21) Where can I buy Fusion Mineral Paint?
You can find your closest Fusion retailer under our Where To Buy section.
22) I am a business owner and I want to sell Fusion in my store. How can I do so?
You can apply to become a Fusion Retailer right here. We have a high volume of requests sent to us daily, but we promise we will be in touch as soon as we possibly can.
23) I have a very specific project that I want to paint with Fusion, but I feel I need more help. Who can I ask?
We have a great Facebook group called Paint it Beautiful. There you will find both expert and amateur painters, as well as Fusion Merchants who are able to help answer just about any question or concern you have with your particular project. Everyone is very helpful and supportive and there is no such thing as a dumb question. So come join us there and ask away! You will find lots of inspiration and discover new painting techniques to help you create the look you want for your home.
24) Where else can I connect with other Fusion fans and community members?
We are across social media on all the major platforms. You can follow us on the following:
Looking for a way to create texture and depth in your piece? Well, we have just the product for that! Introducing our NEW Crackled Texture. This base product creates cracks and crevasses on which you can add paint over top. It is best applied on a flat horizontal surface, as the product is self-levelling. The thicker the application – the more defined the cracks will appear. It’s a great way to add character to your piece with an aged and weathered look.
1. Prep your surface as you would to paint with Fusion. Use TSP Alternative to clean, then give your piece a light sanding and remove excess dust using a lint-free rag.
2. Pour a generous amount of the Crackled Texture medium over your surface. Spread with a putty knife or chip brush. (Note: The thicker the layer, the larger your crackling will be. Thinner layers will result in small cracks).
3. Allow to dry for 6-12 hours. (Feel free to get creative and re-apply the Crackled Texture. As a result, added layers will give your piece even more depth and texture)
4. Paint over the dried Crackled Texture with the colour of your choice. We used the colour Brook and applied it with a Staalmeester Brush.
5. To add some nuances, you can add coloured wax. In this piece, we used Fusion’s Liming Wax.
6. Then we distressed the painted door by scraping away some of the surface. This gives it an increased weathered look.
The piece is now ready to stage and style for your space!
What will you use Crackle on? Leave your project ideas in the comments below!
